{"id":140341,"date":"2020-08-07T17:24:34","date_gmt":"2020-08-07T15:24:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/?p=140341"},"modified":"2020-08-07T17:24:34","modified_gmt":"2020-08-07T15:24:34","slug":"louis-vuitton-ss21-virgil-its-over","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/en\/louis-vuitton-ss21-virgil-its-over\/","title":{"rendered":"Louis Vuitton SS21: Virgil, it’s over"},"content":{"rendered":"

The collection presented yesterday in Shanghai by Louis Vuitton Men, with Virgil Abloh at the helm, has once again left that feeling of stagnation that is beginning to be worrying. Yesterday’s show showed the first part of the collection, which will have a second part in Tokyo.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"LOUIS<\/p>\n

The collection<\/h2>\n

Virgil<\/strong><\/a> arrived in Shanghai determined to shake off the criticism of those who believe his time in LV<\/strong><\/a> has already passed. He didn’t make it.<\/p>\n

To his credit, for the first time in the company’s history, the collection is almost entirely made up of stock excedents and pieces from previous collections. Upcycling<\/strong><\/a> came to the French house. The importance of making fashion sustainable is crucial for the future of the planet, and Vuitton’s<\/strong><\/a> visibility is essential for this increasingly widespread trend to continue.<\/p>\n

In Virgil Abloh’s<\/strong> <\/a>case, recycling has played a nasty trick on him. In a proposal in which tayloring and office wear play a main role, the feeling is one of deja vu, once again. Off White’s<\/strong> <\/a>\u00a0founder visit to Paris is leaving more shadows than lights. Unlike houses like Gucci<\/strong><\/a> or Dior<\/strong><\/a>, Vuitton’s men’s section doesn’t seem to be moving forward. You can’t see a defined imaginary or an evolution in the proposals. Enough time has passed for Abloh’s<\/strong><\/a> creations for LV to show some growth. This has not been the case. Any piece of any collection designed by the DJ and architect can appear in any of the shows of the French house without any discrepancy. Not cool.<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=jTwW4ZrqT3w&feature=emb_title<\/p>\n

The Shanghai parade, broadcasted on Instagram<\/strong><\/a> Live, got off to a bad start. When the cameras pointed to the audience, it was clear that there was no sign of safety distance nor were those present wearing facemasks. This provoked a lot of comments during the broadcast of the show on IG, generating a certain disconcert because of the context in which we find ourselves with the global pandemic<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n

For this occasion, and under the umbrella of upcycling, Virgil offered a first selection of garments and accessories that, in essence, are adaptations of other creations of his. In “Message in a bottle”,<\/strong><\/em> the collection’s name, there is a greater presence of the famous damier<\/em> from the Paris’ maison. On this occasion, he offers versions in beige\/orange and with psychedelic prints. The massive presence of the trench coat was repeated once more and the bet on tayloring was maintained as on previous occasions. This time, Virgil had the collaboration of the Kazak creative Abzal Issabekov<\/strong>\u00a0(@abzalissabekov<\/a>),<\/strong> RTW designer at Louis Vuitton since 2018. This young talent was the first Kazakhstan-born designer to present a collection at Central Saint Martin’s, where he graduated in 2016. In this short time, he has worked for Celine<\/strong><\/a> and Helmut Lang<\/strong><\/a> before making a stop at the LVMH<\/strong><\/a> jewel.<\/p>\n

Returning to the collection, we appreciate a drastic change in the color palette. The presence of strident, electric tones and very 70s prints differs from the more sober proposals of previous collections. These acidic tones remind us of Magliano’s<\/strong><\/a> designs for SS21.<\/p>\n

Under the influence of the “Zoom with friends”<\/strong> we appreciate the presence of stuffed animals hanging from a multitude of garments and accessories, giving a childlike air to their concept. The inspiration for SS21 is a poem by Sun Ra. The also Jazz composer recites in “I’ll wait for you (Strange Worlds in my mind)”<\/strong> : “Where human feet have never trod, where human eyes have never seen \/ I’ll build a world of abstract dreams, and wait for you”.<\/em> This abstract and psychedelic universe is the one that emanates from the Rockford-born creations in SS21.<\/p>\n