{"id":534931,"date":"2025-09-24T12:31:56","date_gmt":"2025-09-24T10:31:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/?p=534931"},"modified":"2025-09-24T12:31:57","modified_gmt":"2025-09-24T10:31:57","slug":"diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/","title":{"rendered":"Diesel SS26: Glenn Martens transforms Milan into a radically democratic game board"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Numa temporada repleta de desfiles espetaculares, instala\u00e7\u00f5es conceituais e shows com ambi\u00e7\u00f5es cinematogr\u00e1ficas, a Diesel<\/a><\/strong> conseguiu, mais uma vez, alterar o eixo do espet\u00e1culo milan\u00eas. Para a sua cole\u00e7\u00e3o SS26, Glenn Martens n\u00e3o apresentou uma passarela. N\u00e3o ofereceu uma fila A. N\u00e3o montou uma fila da frente para editores, celebridades ou compradores VIP. O que ele fez foi \u2014 literalmente \u2014 espalhar a sua vis\u00e3o pelas ruas de Mil\u00e3o. Distribuiu 55 look eggs por toda a cidade: modelos reais, contidos em c\u00e1psulas de vidro transparente em forma de ovo, prontos para serem encontrados por qualquer pessoa. Porque a mensagem era t\u00e3o clara quanto subversiva: \u00aba moda \u00e9 um jogo, mas um jogo em que todos podem participar\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Apoiado pela C\u00e2mara Municipal de Mil\u00e3o, o Diesel Egg Hunt ativou mais do que uma narrativa viral: um coment\u00e1rio profundo sobre acesso, espet\u00e1culo e poder. Num mundo onde a moda de luxo se torna cada vez mais exclusiva, mais restritiva e mais codificada em c\u00f3digos incompreens\u00edveis, Martens desmantela o sistema por dentro, convidando o p\u00fablico em geral n\u00e3o apenas a observar, mas a participar, competir e, se forem r\u00e1pidos o suficiente, ganhar. O ovo \u2014 s\u00edmbolo de in\u00edcio, fragilidade, potencial \u2014 torna-se uma met\u00e1fora desta nova etapa da Diesel: uma marca que n\u00e3o tem medo de se desconstruir, repensar e expor as suas entranhas est\u00e9ticas a um p\u00fablico que j\u00e1 n\u00e3o se contenta com a superf\u00edcie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Os 55 looks espalhados pela cidade funcionam como pe\u00e7as de um quebra-cabe\u00e7as material e visual. A cole\u00e7\u00e3o, em si, est\u00e1 estruturada em torno das no\u00e7\u00f5es de trampantojo, camadas, invers\u00e3o e fragmenta\u00e7\u00e3o: vestidos sem mangas como envolventes corporais, denim acetinado que simula envelhecimento por laser, pe\u00e7as compostas por tecidos que parecem fundidos \u00e0 for\u00e7a, casacos revers\u00edveis com bolsos falsos, pe\u00e7as que s\u00e3o maiores por dentro do que por fora. Tudo parece projetado para desafiar a percep\u00e7\u00e3o, como se Martens estivesse brincando com o olho do espectador, obrigando-o a questionar o que \u00e9 real, o que \u00e9 ilus\u00e3o, o que \u00e9 dentro, o que \u00e9 fora.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A cole\u00e7\u00e3o inclui vestidos de gasa floral triturada que lembram nuvens org\u00e2nicas; macac\u00f5es de malha com sec\u00e7\u00f5es apenas alinhavadas, que sugerem uma decomposi\u00e7\u00e3o est\u00e9tica; jaquetas sem mangas, casacos com v\u00e1rios bolsos abertos como ru\u00ednas funcionais. At\u00e9 mesmo as peles \u2014 de animais que nunca existiram \u2014 funcionam como met\u00e1fora visual da artificialidade das nossas fantasias consumistas. Quanto aos acess\u00f3rios, a cole\u00e7\u00e3o apresenta pe\u00e7as t\u00e3o provocativas quanto esculturais: bolsas Load-D macias, quase biom\u00f3rficas; mules com mini D flutuantes; \u00f3culos oversize em acetato de silhueta mutante; colares vertebrais que abra\u00e7am o pesco\u00e7o como f\u00f3sseis p\u00f3s-humanos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A dire\u00e7\u00e3o de arte, assinada pelo Studio Dennis Vanderbroeck, acentua essa distor\u00e7\u00e3o: os ovos gigantes remetem tanto a vitrines de museu quanto a c\u00e1psulas criog\u00e9nicas. S\u00e3o objetos de desejo, sim, mas tamb\u00e9m recipientes de corpos presos, \u00e0 espera de serem \u00abdescobertos\u00bb. O casting \u2014 a cargo da Establishment NY \u2014 continua a apostar na diversidade. O styling de Ursina Gysi e a beleza dirigida por Inge Grognard reafirmam esse imagin\u00e1rio: maquilhagem desbotada, pele como um mapa, cabelo texturizado ao ponto de parecer sa\u00eddo de uma simula\u00e7\u00e3o 3D decadente. \u00c9 a est\u00e9tica do erro transformada em identidade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

E se Mil\u00e3o j\u00e1 foi uma cidade que resistia a formatos alternativos, hoje n\u00e3o pode mais negar: a Diesel n\u00e3o est\u00e1 simplesmente desfilando, est\u00e1 redesenhando o mapa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Eastpak e Diesel colaboram pela primeira vez.<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Glenn Martens transformou a Diesel numa entidade cultural capaz de dialogar com a rua, com o algoritmo e com a cr\u00edtica especializada.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":22,"featured_media":534694,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3737],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-534931","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-moda"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nDiesel SS26: Glenn Martens transforms Milan into a radically democratic game board - HIGHXTAR.<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Glenn Martens transformou a Diesel numa entidade cultural capaz de dialogar com a rua, com o algoritmo e com a cr\u00edtica especializada.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pt_PT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Diesel SS26: Glenn Martens transforms Milan into a radically democratic game board\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Glenn Martens transformou a Diesel numa entidade cultural capaz de dialogar com a rua, com o algoritmo e com a cr\u00edtica especializada.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"HIGHXTAR.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/highxtar\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-09-24T10:31:56+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-09-24T10:31:57+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/highxtar-glenn-martens-ss26-diesel-destacada.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1200\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Mar Piera\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@highxtar_\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@highxtar_\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Escrito por\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Mar Piera\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Tempo estimado de leitura\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"14 minutos\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Mar Piera\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/#\/schema\/person\/861b5d1b459a894df367f295d952c789\"},\"headline\":\"Diesel SS26: Glenn Martens transforms Milan into a radically democratic game board\",\"datePublished\":\"2025-09-24T10:31:56+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2025-09-24T10:31:57+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/\"},\"wordCount\":628,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/highxtar-glenn-martens-ss26-diesel-destacada.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Moda\"],\"inLanguage\":\"pt-PT\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/#respond\"]}],\"copyrightYear\":\"2025\",\"copyrightHolder\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/#organization\"}},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/highxtar.com\/pt-pt\/diesel-ss26-glenn-martens-transforms-milan-into-a-radically-democratic-game-board\/\",\"name\":\"Diesel SS26: Glenn Martens transforms Milan into a radically democratic game board - 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