Giuliano Calza shows a new vision of GCDS in FW23

The new awakening of Giuliano Calza. This is how we could define the GCDS show that took place last night at Palazzo del Ghiaccio, Milan. We are facing the most mature stage of the designer, or perhaps the most intimate. And it is behind closed doors where we more easily release our true selves. This is the “one self” of Giuliano Calza:

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In the comfort of the GCDS(@gcdswear) the cat Kittho reigns supreme. It is Kittho himself who presides over the catwalk, enlarged to gigantic proportions thanks to the artistry of the masters of Carnevale di Viareggio, Fratelli Cinquini Scenografie – another celebration of the craftsmanship and skills of “Made in Italy”.

Like Cheshire in ‘Alice in Wonderland’, Kittho is the extension of Giuliano’s subconscious. The little feline helps him find the truth in times of uncertainty. Through his eyes, Giuliano explores the obsessions and inclinations that give weight to his creative process: the tweeds of women’s jackets; the pinstripes of men’s tailoring; the worn furs of his rebellious offspring…. This time there are no bold prints or patterns, just a bit of zebra print and a lot of yellow.

The feeling of warmth given by the pelliccia knitwear wrapping the body like a blanket is contrasted with the cutouts and slits in a lot of pieces. And since this is an act of fashion creation in itself, the work in progress is constantly on display, with plenty of safety pins holding things in place.

Accessories celebrate Kittho’s existence in a delicate way. Feline paws are scaled to human proportions on shoes and a ball-like bag is created with the mascot motif. A Bakelite phone returns as the bag’s handle and as the bag itself.

Giuliano has proven this season that he can do more than just give us a good show and viral moments. The latter never fails, of course. This year his friend Dua Lipa was the star of the front row, and the cast of stars in attendance was not small. Still, the VIP guests at the GCDS show didn’t overshadow the designer’s outstanding work.

Perhaps what Calza was hiding was a love of tailoring unknown to all. But it is interesting and appreciated to see him in another register. It makes him a more established and mature designer, he is taken more seriously. He has delved into the depths of his being to delight us with the best he knows how to do: real clothes.

For more about Milano Fashion Week, click here.