Genetics is born of generational exchange. When the imaginations of independent minds intertwine through the ages, the concept of heritage emerges. Gucci’s autumn-winter 2023 women’s collection connects the creative cultures that transfer the House’s history through an evocative yet contemporary approach.
This free expression, inspired by collective memories that blur the boundaries of time, is a reflection of the heart that gives life to Gucci. In a euphoric dialogue between past and future, the collection reflects on Gucci as a cultural constant and revives the influence of the visionaries who spearheaded it, paving the way for its heritage to reach a new dimension.
The show took place within the very anatomy of the House. In the sancta sanctorum of the Gucci Hub, lifts transported the collection through the building to the catwalk, illustrating the creative process underlying every new proposal: from the archives where ideas emerge, through the workshops where they are shaped, to the catwalk, where they are manifested.
Surrounded by seating made from its innovative Demetra material, the spherical catwalks represented the collaborative circularity that defines Gucci’s creative community. A dark yet familiar soundscape evoking eras was a reflection of the collection itself. A premise embodied by a cast of characters spanned the history of the House, from the 1990s and 2010s to the present day.
The silhouettes were reminiscent of Gucci’s erotic and glamorous language of the 90s and early 2000s, but with the electric and sumptuous colour palette of 2010. Playing on that familiar feeling of a return from one dimension to another, suits were magnified while shirts and two-piece ensembles – tops and skirts – were kept to a minimum.
The wool or fur suits stood out for their oversized cut with voluminous shoulders, plunging necklines and low-slung trousers. Skirts came in long, midi lengths in flowing fabrics with lace trimmings. A metallic GG bra encrusted with crystals set the tone for an extravagant jewellery selection dominated by XXL necklines.
Oversized knitwear in combed angora wool and looped yarns, as well as coats and lapels in fleece or faux fur in vibrant tones, were also seen. Created according to savoir-faire principles, evening dresses evoked heart shapes – a symbol of the House’s bosom – as in the case of the drop-waist skirt of a bustier dress in duchesse satin.
Colourful mask-like sunglasses were a nod to a classic Gucci fragrance, while Busby hats reinforced the exuberance of a collection driven by the eternal creativity that runs through Gucci’s veins. New rounded reinterpretations of the trapezoidal chain bag came in quilted, crystal-embellished and contrasting leather versions. The Jackie bag arrived with softened lines in two-tone tones and embossed GG leather.
The classic Gucci loafer arrived on a rubber sole, while snow boots originally designed for the sixties ski collection reappeared with Horsebit studs. The kitten heel dominated square sandals, wide-leg boots and tiger-head embellished sandals inspired by the Dionysus bag. Boxing boots and basketball boots rounded off the collection with a slightly sporty touch.
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