Colorful cubes made of confetti sculpted under pressure, without any glue (Lara Favaretto’s work, Midsommar, created expressly for Loewe) lay on a neutral white catwalk for Loewe’s fashion show. In the heart of Château de Vincennes, JW Anderson makes us part of its reductionist act.
In the same tone that he gave on the Loewe men’s runway last Fashion Week, JW Anderson has further reduced the Loewe closet to the basics: one piece, and that’s it, reduced to the simplest possible form. A single detail on the garment or a gesture of the model finishes creating the silhouette. Sometimes it’s the crossed arms on silk dresses, another time a giant golden pin picks up the fabric of a pastel blue dress. In draped dresses, it is a purse chain that holds the excess, boots that simulate the waistband of a pair of pants collapse from the excess fabric.
In the most absolute simplicity, it is in the silhouette, texture and shape where the value and meaning of the proposal lies. Feathers, leather treated by the best Spanish tanners, and silk have been the materials that have reigned. In some garments, the prints of the metaverse dresses are blurred; the pixels of last season are now blurred. The cardigan becomes a sticker.
The ‘Puzzle’ and ‘Paseo’ bags appear oversized and with a certain fluidity in movement. New from the brand is the Squeeze bag, crafted in irresistible buttery leather with a fluffy handle and doughnut-shaped chain.
At a time defined by extroversion, over-information and over-stimulation, JW Anderson is taking a masterclass in elementality to the next level. The designer knows how to make fashion, there is no doubt about it when you see his surreal creations. But this time it is about focusing on what may seem unclear, to put the focus on what is really important.
For more about Paris Fashion Week, click here.
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