Demna presented Balenciaga’s first collection after the series of controversies that have so damaged its reputation in 2022, this time without the presence of celebrities or live broadcast.
During Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga’s FW23 runway show was held in a discreet room at the Carrousel du Louvre shopping mall in Paris. Considering the series of scandals that the brand has lived only a few months ago and the statements of Demna himself, we already knew that this proposal would be far away from viral moments, extravagant scenography and the participation of the Kardashians or Kanye West.
The designer wanted to move away from the idea of “fashion as entertainment” for FW23, as many times the essence of the clothes can be lost and remain in the background, as it had happened in his last shows with the snowstorm or the mud runway. Shapes, volumes, silhouettes and fabrics lost attention, and the artistic director of the couture house was frustrated that people did not talk about them when commenting on his collections.
Demna told the press that she had had this idea in her head since before the controversy, although it obviously affected her work and also confirmed that she was going in the right direction with her new vision.
The show opened with a perfectly tailored wide black suit, followed by immaculate double-breasted jackets, oversized gray plaid coats and pinstriped suits. The collection took a new shape as the show progressed with a blue trench coat look and the archival floral dresses. The FW23 collection also included more street pieces such as white hoodies and voluminous puffed outfits.
At the close we see a series of iconic dresses, some in shimmering fabrics, others composed of transparencies and lace with floral appliqués, and another in the shape of a high-necked nightgown adorned with crystal sequins. With this return, the firm has certainly taken a step in the right direction in its quest to recover the value of high quality fashion, away from controversy and morbidity.
And talking about Balenciaga… Have you seen their shiny clog collection yet?
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