Thom Browne’s first Couture show was full of theatricality

Thom Browne made his grand debut at Paris Haute Couture Week presenting his first Fall/Winter 2023 collection. With the Opéra Garnier as his backdrop, Browne brought theatrical drama to the runway, with a palette of gray tones and a focus on silhouette and movement throughout his creations.

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This inaugural collection fused classic American sports aesthetics with couture. Upon entering the opera house, guests were greeted by 2,000 two-dimensional spectators dressed in Thom Browne’s signature basic gray uniform. Browne’s entry into the world of Parisian couture allowed the audience to take their seats on stage, facing the auditorium fully populated with black and white cut-out illustrations that resembled the designer himself.

The runway show was set to the song “Fade to Grey” by Visage, setting the tone for the rest of the collection. The first model to appear on stage was Alek Welk, sporting the brand’s classic grey jacket and kilt combination. She remained seated on a pile of gray suitcases for the rest of the runway show, as the rest of the collection unfolded around her.

A multitude of gray Thom Browne suits and coats in fitted silhouettes were presented on stage. Exaggerated shapes enhanced by dramatic A-lines and various textures in shades of gray dominated the runway show. Patchwork checks, short suits and coats were embellished with stripes of silver and gold sequins. Feathered bodysuits and 3D clouds were woven into the ensembles to add texture.

Aquatic motifs materialized in coats and costumes. Complete ensembles featured iconography of crustaceans, anchors, lighthouses and nautical ropes. Tortoiseshell platform heels strolled the runway alongside oversized Mr. Thom and Hector bags and new Bermuda shorts. Although silhouettes were repeated in the looks, Thom Browne continued to convey his American narrative through drama and interpretation in the world of Parisian couture.

In other fashion news, Iris Van Herpen explores aquatic urbanism in her latest collection.