Moschino’s SS24 collection: a 40th anniversary celebration

Moschino takes Milan Fashion Week by storm with the spring-summer 2024 collection and a 40th anniversary show that pays tribute to founder Franco Moschino and his artistic partnerships.

Moschino’s SS24 show at Milan Fashion Week was a celebration of the brand’s 40th anniversary and, as such, one of the most unique and memorable shows of the season. Following Jeremy Scott’s farewell in 2023 after a decade at the helm of the house’s creative direction, the collection was designed by four of the most influential names in fashion – and friends of the house – Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu and Katie Grand.

Divided into acts, like a play, the collection took reference from the house’s past collections, drawing inspiration from its archives. During the show, we saw the brand’s staples from 1960 to 1990 with redesigns that were just as colourful and exuberant as those of the era. From dresses with bows and XXL ruffles, to woven patches, lace and XL lettering, this was a collection that celebrated the brand’s heritage and unique sense of humour.

The show began with stylist Cerf de Dudzeele’s vision that paid homage to the timelessness of the 20th century’s most lighthearted and ironic designer, Franco Moschino. White double-breasted suits were paired with pleated trousers, collared tops and heart-shaped XXS bags for a fun twist. Silhouettes were complemented with necklaces and earrings in classic shapes, striking a fine balance between elegant and opulent.

Karefa-Johnson’s work came next, ushering in the second act. The stylist had worked on adapting Franco’s silhouettes for artists’ shows in the 1990s. So she focused on reimagining Franco’s classic cowboy hats, flashy jewellery and crocheted dresses for the modern woman of the era; and with Beyoncé’s “PURE/HONEY” playing in the background, KJ’s eccentric energy permeated every attendee.

For the third act, Liu took centre stage with a more conceptual approach by building new motifs around Franco Moschino’s iconic “Protect Me from Fashion System” T-shirt. Grand followed suit a little and in the fourth act opted for the use of key slogans in Franco’s imaginary. In addition, there was also choreography by Wayne McGregor, the artistic director of Studio Wayne McGregor and resident choreographer at The Royal Ballet.

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The dance was followed by a violin rendition of “I Am What I Am” by Laura Marzadori, referencing Moschino’s Autumn/Winter 1986 fashion show. As the instrument echoed around the room, the cast of models emerged once again, wearing T-shirts made in partnership with the Elton John AIDS Foundation, which are now available for purchase on the brand’s website and in its Milan flagship shop. 

Pink Flamingo heels: Moschino’s cartoonish creation.