From the secret tunnels at the back of Milano Estazione Centrale, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto have unleashed their magic starting from a simple element: the balloon. Fifteen hundred of these, designed by artist Dominic Mya, flood a new apocalyptic catwalk by JORDANLUCA. Each balloon is a bubble of visual effervescence, a reminder of the ephemerality that is often overlooked in the vortex of everyday existence.
Novelist Chuck Palahniuk’s line in Not Forever, But For Now “Once the breakable things are broken, then everyone can relax” resonates throughout the collection. Because the most real thing of all is that the only inevitable thing is time. Just as we can’t stop a balloon from deflating, we can’t stop the days from passing. And that is something inherent to human beings, to our whole existence. Time envelops us all and everything, as does the Carousel of Chaos dress on the catwalk. Of 37 continuous metres of sustainable satin viscose, the dress covers the wearer time and time again.
“The party is over, but hope remains”, whispers the collection. An echo of the reality we all face, where hope clings to truth. The truth of our personal struggles, of the vulnerability we share in the human experience; the truth of our daily lives. The looks are reminiscent of office life, bringing to light virtuoso tailoring, using new fusion techniques to maintain the silhouette and create a flaring effect, without losing the punk feel that characterises them. Highlights include the Clover shirt with a double collar, the Monolith coat and the classic suit trousers, which this season replace the classic KILT that we are used to from the brand.
Large, functional umbrellas and bags accompany the new citizen, in which the Italian tailoring of Luca’s side meets the British punk undertones of Jordan’s. An army of creatures stroll through this crazy world with studs, zips, leather and punk shields interspersed with classic cuts. Among them is Andreas Kronthaler, Westwood’s partner and current creative director. The designer’s cameo in support of Marchetto, who a decade ago worked as his and Vivienne Westwood’s personal design assistant, is just another reaffirmation of the brand’s codes: community feeling in spades.
Jordanluca catwalk ends with a remix of “Mad World”, reminding us that in this world, balloons can fly and sometimes deflate, but holding them will always be our bravest act. This is, after all, the universe of JORDANLUCA: brave.
For more on Milan Fashion Week, click here.
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