Sacai FW24 Co-Ed: “United as One / One Love”

Chitose Abe unveiled her latest mixed collection for Sacai Fall/Winter 2024 at the Carreau du Temple, an iconic venue that has hosted great designers throughout its history. The Japanese designer presented a proposal that fuses men’s and women’s fashion, carrying with it a message of unity and love.

65 photos

Under this motto of “United as One / One Love,” the designer plays with shapes and colors, taking a monochromatic approach that draws attention to round silhouettes and voluminous sleeves. Chitose Abe returns to Sacai’s foundations, exploring her love of the uniform as this season’s common thread.

The tactic of simplification takes center stage, bringing to life a new round and vertical elongated silhouette. The garments, in pastel colors, soften the rigidity of the uniform, while knitwear patterns are reinvented in sequined fabrics, creating new shapes and structures. Fur-lined baseball jackets, cocoon vests paired with pleated silk skirts, and generous military pockets intertwine in an artistic fusion that highlights the brand’s intrinsic bravery and originality.

J.M. Weston Golf Derbys and Worker boots, with Sacai’s iconic sneaker sole, complement the collection perfectly. Although there are no outside collaborations this time around, the essence of Sacai is highlighted in structured, oversized pieces and plays on materials and layering, especially in jackets and coats.

Chitose Abe opted for an exclusively Sacai show, without external collaborations with brands such as Carhartt or Nike, marking a statement of creative independence and maintaining the pure essence of the brand. What she did do is working with artist and skate pioneer, Mark Gonzales, who lends his art to this new collection through a series of badges applied to Spiewak G8 jackets, creating a unique collaboration that continues Sacai’s tradition of partnering with recognized identities in the utilitarian apparel world.

The Japanese has not limited herself to streetwear; sartorial garments such as trench coats, tailors and vests with exaggeratedly puffed sleeves add an imposing touch to the Sacai-like silhouettes. She proposed on a final day of Paris Fashion Week a spectacular showcase of 65 deconstructed and avant-garde utilitarian silhouettes, radiating Sacai’s signature identity on all sides.

For more on Paris Fashion Week, click here.