Runway recap: The best shows of NYFW FW24

After transporting us to Copenhagen and Berlin, the New York Fashion Week FW24 has taken over to unveil the trends and the best shows of the season, which, after a break for the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid, will stop in London, Milan and Paris in the coming weeks. Here’s a summary of some of the shows you can’t miss at NYFW:

AREA 

Notice someone or something watching you? Those are the thousands of AREA eyes on the runway. This season, Piotrek Pansczcyr enters the game between seeing and being seen, with a collection that has the eye as its starting point, considering observation a shared experience between the architect and his audience. Now the observers are observed and critiqued by the thousands of eyes of AREA NYC. Exploring the classic codes of the brand, the cartoonish googly eyes of 1920’s cartoons are transformed into polka dots, dalmatian prints, delicate flowers and circle-shaped glass ornaments; a modern interpretation of what happens in the digital age, where anyone can be observed and criticized.

HELMUT LANG

In his second collection at Helmut Lang, Peter Do revisits the idea of armor, focusing the theme of the proposal on protection and personal projection. With poetic references that evoke Helmut himself, Do fuses colors such as red and neon orange in a neutral palette. A new silk fabric that simulates the bubble wrap used for packaging is used to create bulletproof vests, bomber jackets and pants.

The dichotomy between protection and projection is manifested in the combination of sinuous dresses with quilted coats, balaclavas and parkas, creating a statement of personality.

Willy Chavarria 

Willy Chavarria fuses the glamour of the British upper class of the 80’s with details of the motor culture, highlighting luxurious plaid wool and houndstooth prints. Garments such as a houndstooth turtleneck shirt with embroidered logo, paired with leather jackets, create a unique, urban style. The collection exhibits executive realism with knitted sweaters and classic ensembles, such as gray suits and tracksuits. With cohesive detailing and intricate tailoring, Chavarria, recently named Men’s Designer of the Year at the recent CFDA Fashion Awards, establishes his influence on New York fashion.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin 

A regular on the Paris calendar, this season Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his NYFW debut, exploring the duality between innocence and dark eroticism, taking inspiration from the work of Robert Mapplethorpe. The range of garments, ranging from glamour to 80’s decadence, captures the multifaceted essence of the New York artist. The collaboration with TOUS and the meticulously crafted floral details add a touch of elegance and sensibility to the collection. Leather, omnipresent in Mapplethorpe’s work, is fused with BDSM aesthetics to pay homage to New York’s gay demi-monde. The result is a bold and poignant ode to the life and work of the iconic photographer.

Prabal Gurung 

Prabal Gurung presents a symbology of fragmented memories. It combines Eastern and Western influences, with red garments and sari-style draping. It highlights the added volume and texture of sheep in the garments. Unlike last season, this collection is more subdued, but reflects a growth towards a more mature stage for the New York-based brand. Its commitment to inclusivity has been reflected in the diversity of models on the runway.

Christian Cowan 

Christian Cowan dazzled at New York Fashion Week FW24 with his collection inspired by the strength and power of women leaders. Under the slogan “Did someone say bosses?”, Cowan transforms the aesthetic of the mafia woman, proclaiming that they are not just wives, but the ones who run the show.

In addition to her inspiration of the empowered female figure, Cowan pays homage to her late father through astrology, incorporating stars in dresses and tailored ensembles, and glimpses of them in mini skirts and sequined dresses- The climax of the collection comes with a dress designed in collaboration with Adobe as part of the Primrose Project, a stunning display of technological innovation and creativity. This unique dress incorporates liquid crystal technology that changes pattern multiple times per second, with star-cut petals reflecting Cowan’s avant-garde vision. With each creation, Christian Cowan continues to push the boundaries of fashion and creativity, blazing a trail into a dazzling future full of possibilities.

Proenza Schouler 

Calm and peace within chaos, that’s the first thing that comes to mind when you look at the new collection of Proenza Schouler. Straight lines, geometric silhouettes and sober colors are the protagonists, eliminating any detail that could explicitly leave the mark. Garments that cover the bodies in a particular way, from generous hoods to shawls on bare shoulders. Shy colors are presented in maxi-dresses that evoke an angelic and sensual feeling, while the tailoring is characterized by cleanliness and sharpness.

Luar

LUAR FW24 runway show at NYFW perfectly reflected the identity of its creative director, Rual Lopez, who explored gender fluidity as an expression of his own (metro)sexuality. A runway show that may be a game changer for the brand, because of the stellar front row appearances of Beyoncé, Tina Knowles and Solange. The family went to support Daniel “Julez” Smith Jr, Solange’s son, who was walking the runway for the first time. Apart from celebrities and paparazzi moment, Lopez’s collection stood out for contrasts, combining pieces such as transparent blouses with robust leather jackets, or tight jeans and prints, along with sculpted pants with ostrich texture. A mix of metrosexual expressions throughout the decades of the last century, and a collaboration with Moose Knuckles that is perfect not only for the LUAR man but for both genders.

And here, a review of the best street styles in New York Fashion Week.