Peter Hawkings’ second collection for Tom Ford is not even remotely intended to change any of the codes that have made the brand an icon of our time.
Why is it that when something works it has to be changed? Peter Hawkings has it clear, and as Tom Ford‘s new successor for just two collections, his efforts are focused on preserving the symbols that have made the brand an icon of the 90s that we still adore today. For his Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Hawkings reaffirms Tom Ford’s values by putting men and women in mirror mode: absolute complementation.
Seduction is common to both. Strong characters, full of glamour, dressed to catch the eye. The silhouette is long and slim with textured accents: bangs, cut-outs, openings, treated leathers, etc., each of the materials add depth to the play of textures and invite touch: moleskin, patent leather, shiny barathea, flamed velvet, and different treatments of wool and silk.
The controlled palette of black, brown and white is punctuated by violets and illuminated by gold, either as a whole surface or as accent hardware that complements the looks. Fordian signs are reiterated in the juxtaposition of tailoring and ethereal, of irremissible precision and liberating abandon.
The creature that emerges is strong and confident, with the hair of Françoise Hardy and the stature of a Helmut Newton Pola Woman. Wrapped in vanilla perfume, she has smoky eyes, natural lips, and is in command: free to be dressed or undressed, but always sparkling with glamour. The man is like her: they share the impeccable fit, the touches of gold, the military coats, even the sequins of the evening. He is a charming character too, dressed with elegance: pants, tuxedo and leather, in trench coat or total look.
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