The Courrèges proposal presented this Wednesday at Paris Fashion Week was the latest milestone in the now increasingly well-established relaunch and revitalisation process of the house that the Belgian designer Nicolas Di Felice, creative director of the firm since September 2020, is taking charge of leading. A purpose for which he is making use of everything he has learned during his years of work as part of the team of Nicolas Ghesquière, current creative director of Louis Vuitton, as well as his innate sensitivity to the world and everything that surrounds us.
Courrèges FW24 was a break from the frenetic pace of Paris Fashion Week. And I say a pause because Nicolas Di Felice invited us to stop and breathe. The creative director recreated a humanised floor capable of moving and breathing in and out. In addition, he added an intense breathing audio as a soundtrack that provoked an immense sense of peace and tranquillity. Di Felice revisited some of the house’s most characteristic codes, such as its flared dresses or its more than iconic “scaphoid” hats, reinterpreting the “futuristic” and “space” fashion of the 60s.
The most outstanding and differentiated feature of the collection was the succession of designs imbued with a whole series of “cheeky” gestures charged with eroticism. Gestures among which acquired a special provocative relevance that hand introduced inside the front pockets of the garments. Pockets placed in a compromising position charged with great sensuality. This distribution of the pockets and the gesture of the models served to bring to the table such burning issues as women’s relationship with their bodies, sexuality and, to a certain extent, the breaking of taboos.
In short, a sensuality that was also present in the other designs, with a strap unhooked here, a sleeve removed there, or a bra in sight, trying to capture that intimate moment of the act of undressing. Provocations that ended up reaching their peak, with dresses and skirts in a feather-effect fabric that seemed to reinterpret the bristling of a skin when it comes into contact with an embrace, a caress, a kiss. A sensory experience with which the Belgian designer Nicolas Di Felice once again positions himself at the forefront of fashion.
Captured by David Sims, the power of music takes centre stage in the new Courrèges campaign.
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