Entitled “Áo Dài“, Peter Do‘s collection challenges the tradition associated with the national costume of Vietnam, his native country, reinterpreting the original silk tunic through unisex pants and/or the incorporation of unfolded lapels, knee-length shirts or masculine tops with an open back.
The Vietnamese designer thus lands with a new proposal for his eponymous label for FW24 in Paris, presenting it on an evocative French gallery, after materializing his second collection for Helmut Lang at NYFW earlier this month.
“Right now I’m not trying to turn PD into the next billion-dollar brand,” the designer told Vogue Runway. “Because of my new challenge at Helmut, I want to protect this. I want it to feel even more personal and special to me, where I feel maybe not financially, but creatively free.”
That creative freedom he now channels through sinuous, flowing fabrics and oversized silhouettes that dance on the human silhouette in monochromatic or neutral tones. However, some pieces are presented with brushstrokes of black and white paint, drawing models such as turtleneck sweaters, fitted blazers layered skirts or buttoned shirts with extra-long sleeves.
Do updates in this new chapter for PFW his design codes, experimenting without limits with fashion, turning lapels inwards on wool coats or knotting shirts up to the knee; in the middle of a dance between structured or sharp patterns or silhouettes in contrast with other liberated ones that dilute gender.
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