Martine Rose and her ongoing tribute to the ordinary people

For Martine Rose, her community has always been everything. Motivated by an irrepressible desire to represent the ordinary people who make up the London society that inspires her, the designer has produced a lookbook for the Autumn-Winter 2024 collection featuring the same individuals who walked the catwalk that season: ordinary people, by the way, no models.

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The collection’s lookbook is directed by Jamie Morgan, and features items fresh off the runway along with unreleased pieces from the collection. The premise: “To feel seen. Be seen.” Here everything from garment construction to personal style and individual gestures infuse attitude into each look. The gestures, movements and behaviors of the individual are materialized in the garments. From tailoring to sportswear, Rose’s exploration includes shirts and T-shirts with integrated knots that mimic the impulse to tie a sweater around the shoulder or knot the hem of a T-shirt in a nightclub, and shirts that evoke the triumphant gesture of footballers scoring a goal.

Tailored jackets with linings pulled out to create impromptu cuffs and pants with raised bottoms cut from two contrasting pants reflect an unselfconscious, everyday style. In addition, a series of hybrid garments, including jackets, vests, dresses and tops, celebrate the mismatched with convertible and reversible constructions.

The collection’s fabrics take inspiration from the glamour of local character dressing, with moiré and nappa leather in odd colors reminiscent of the British rare groove and garage scenes. Striped leathers and shearling pay homage to ’90s Camden, while distressed outer materials and dusty rodeo leathers evoke an ’80s punk attitude. Denim appears in dirty vintage washes and camouflage patterns, backed by a psychedelic space print that evokes the underground spirit of the ’70s.

This season, the collection also features the second collaboration between Martine Rose and Clarks, cementing their commitment to innovation and empowerment through fashion.

The Martine Rose Fall-Winter 2024 collection is now available for purchase at martine-rose.com.

Did you see Martine Rose’s debut at Milan Fashion Week?