CELINE SS25: Hedi Slimane revives the 1920s with a rockabilly twist

It may be 2024, but CELINE‘s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection takes us back to the 1920s with a fresh look at the English style of the era. Under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane, the French house presented a 13-minute runway show that paid homage to vintage British wardrobe with pinpoint precision and timeless elegance.

Entitled ‘The Bright Young’, a nod to the British social elite of the 1920s, the collection is a couture time machine. Inspired by the tradition of 20th century military uniforms, English gardens and a fascination with British culture, the presentation kicked off with an unexpected appearance: herds of deer grazing in a field, creating a visually captivating scene before the models made their entrance.

The sound backdrop was ‘Les Indes Galantes’ by French composer Jean-Philippe Rameau, the same piece that played for Queen Elizabeth II on her first official visit to France in 1957. The music set the tempo of the presentation, transporting the audience to a world of nostalgia and luxury. The runway alternated between black and white and colour shots, playing with the line between past and present, a visual metaphor that reflected the duality of the collection.

The clothes are an ode to the 1920s, but less ‘The Great Gatsby’ and more ‘The Windsors’. Slimane strikes a balance between classic style and a modern twist, with striped blazers, matching trousers and carnations in the pockets, all made from authentic 1920s English fabric. Slimane’s obsession with British anthropology is embodied not only in the design, but also in the choice of materials, demonstrating an unwavering commitment to authenticity.

It wasn’t all about nostalgia, however. Slimane injected his signature rockabilly touch with a classic leather jacket that broke with traditional tailoring. Paired with capes, canes and top hats, the garment introduced a visual contrast that captured the essence of CELINE: a mix of classic with a modern and unexpected twist.

This season, Slimane is going for a sleek, preppy approach, which could pave the way for Michael Rider, formerly of Ralph Lauren, to join the CELINE house. With rumours swirling about Slimane’s future, Rider emerges as the favourite to continue the brand’s evolution, with a CV that fits perfectly with CELINE’s recent foray into classic British style.