n the latest edition of New York Fashion Week, Tory Burch presented her SS25 collection at the iconic Skylight at The Refinery, a space steeped in history located in the former Domino Sugar Factory. The show, enveloped in an atmosphere of sophistication and industrial nostalgia, became a manifestation of freedom and escape, two concepts that guided each of the designer’s proposals.
The silhouettes of the collection blurred the lines between sporty and haute couture, reinterpreting athletic elements with a modern and sensual elegance. Swimsuits, densely embroidered with sequins, captured the light in a hypnotic way while belts and ties evoked the gestures of martial arts jackets.
Color-block jackets, inspired by sports jerseys, and stitching and quilting that followed the curves of the body, added a structured, form-fitting dimension to the designs. Skirts with wire through the waist, which folded around the curves in a sculptural manner, stood out, and draping, present in cascading chiffon skirts paired with cotton V-necks, brought a perfect combination of movement and structure.
The play of textures and materials was one of the collection’s strong points. Burch explored a wide range of fabrics, from quilted cotton and waffle knit to stretch wool chiffon, creating a mix of the sporty, the sumptuous and the unexpected. Embellishments such as hand-twisted sequins, crystal beads and feather-light suede added a distinctive touch of luxury. An abstract jacquard evoked swimmers and waves, while a classic toile de jouy revealed aliens hiding among the flora and fauna, adding a playful and surreal touch that surprised attendees.
Bags were also featured prominently, highlighting the evolution of the Pierced collection with an oval design in soft, unlined leather, decorated with an imposing oversized ring. Another notable offering was the Balloon shoulder bag, reinterpreted with the distorted T Monogram and shimmering textures. For evening, the iconic Eleanor box bag was reinvented in metal, developing versions in velvet and sequins with silk fringes that swept the floor, bringing a theatrical and sophisticated touch.
The collection’s footwear was inspired by the structure of a ballet dancer, reinterpreted in modern, elegant versions. The classic Reva ballerina, originally launched in 2006, was updated with details such as cutouts, a beveled coin and a new mule silhouette, while the Twisted pump maintained the essence of dance, combining comfort and style.
Accessories brought a touch of humor and fantasy, with metal chandelier earrings reminiscent of cartoon aliens or octopuses. Wraparound sunglasses and skinny belts with leather charms complemented the looks, offering a balance between boldness and refinement.
The show experience was completed with a musical production by Wladimir Schall, who selected tracks such as “Surge” by Cid Rim, “Space Woman” by Charlie, “Apocalypso” by Chris and Cosey, and “Dance Yrself Clean” by LCD Soundsystem. The musical selection created an immersive atmosphere, oscillating between introspective and vibrant, and perfectly accompanied the visual and sensorial narrative of the collection.
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