Burberry closes London Fashion Week at the National Theatre

In the midst of the financial setbacks it has been experiencing in recent months, Burberry decided to take its guests to a space that seemed to reflect its own reality: the foyer of the National Theatre. An icon of London brutalism, with its angular shapes and concrete walls, it embodied a contrast with the delicacy displayed in the brand’s new summer 2025 collection. The choice of location underscored a critical time for Burberry, which has recently been removed from the FTSE 100 index following a significant drop in its market capitalization. This marked the end of 15 years for the brand in the prestigious index of the UK’s largest companies.

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Just a month earlier, the brand had announced the dismissal of its CEO, Jonathan Akeroyd, who had held the position for less than two years. His departure followed another disappointing quarter in sales, down 20%. However, these challenges, both financial and strategic, have not dented the inherent creativity of its creative director, Daniel Lee, who presented a collection rooted in his British heritage.

The rough but delicate energy of the proposal was enhanced by the work of British artist Gary Hume, who created a set that was in dialogue with the brutalist architecture of the National Theatre. Hume, known for his minimalist approach, described the process of creating art as “always being observing and then always creating,” a mantra that also seems to apply to Daniel Lee’s creative vision at Burberry. The starkness of the space perfectly complemented the sophisticated pieces in the collection.

Rainwear, such as trench coats, were reinvented in cropped and deconstructed versions, made in lighter fabrics such as silk poplin and linen. These choices evoked an air of freedom and freshness, but also delicacy; perfect pieces for summer. Others, such as button-down or sailor-style jackets, pointed out Burberry’s mastery of tailoring.

The use of worn material texture reflected the connection to the outdoors. Capes and parkas, coated for protection, offered an aged look, inspired by Burberry’s long history of fabric innovation. Plaid, an iconic element of the brand, adorned jackets, pants and bags made from linen, cotton and chain mail, paying homage to its heritage. In them, long skirts in vibrant shades, even pastels, and dresses adorned with metallic sequins in gold and lilac introduced a touch of sparkle to the sobriety of the space, while cargo pants, functional and protective, maintained the trend towards practicality.

Accessories did not go unnoticed. Sturdy, softly constructed men’s clogs and loafers contrasted with delicate Twine heels and open-toed sandals, which added a feminine touch. Bags, inspired by the outdoors, featured the classic Burberry check in textured leather and suede, with a focus on practicality and design.

Daniel Lee has demonstrated yet another season, within the existing possibilities in a delicate scenario for Burberry in financial matters, that the English house par excellence remains committed to the arts, an example of this is the chosen location, the collaboration with the artist and also the color palette used this season, in which the designer has been encouraged to experiment with more cheerful tones.

This is how we experienced London Fashion Week with Pull and Bear.