Acne Studios presented its SS25 collection in a minimalist yet striking setting: a white room filled with vibrant sculptures created by artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase. These sculptures, adapted from common household objects, encapsulate the theme of the installation: comfort, vulnerability and the importance of guilt-free living. This philosophy of Chase’s intertwines seamlessly with the Acne Studios pieces, where exaggerated volumes and expanded forms explore the physical and emotional expansion of the silhouette.
The show began with a tight-fitting ensemble in shades of beige, an intentionally basic proposal that conveyed nudity in a delicate and subtle way, almost as if the garments were a natural extension of the skin. Quickly, however, the visual narrative changed: puffy tailoring and surreal detailing took centre stage. Case in point was a two-piece suit in grey with an inflated reptilian texture that defied conventional body shapes.
From there, the collection transformed into a tactile and visually stimulating experience, with deconstructed jeans and skirts and structured leather garments that seemed to be inspired by doll fashion. Chunky knits and oversized plaid patterns, looking as if they had been digitally enlarged, took exaggeration to another level. Some looks featured disproportionate busts and protruding straps, reinforcing the idea of childish playfulness.
The closing of the show featured pieces adorned with knots and scraps of fabric, echoing the handmade and worn fabrics that had previously appeared. This final part of the show, with its improvised feel, made the models look as if they had come out of the wardrobe in a hurry, tying different garments to the body, reinforcing a playful, messy aesthetic.
Like Chase’s sculptures in the room, Acne Studios’ collection suggests that personal objects – in this case, clothing – can be charged with identity and meaning. Through its homage to childhood and unfettered self-expression, the Acne Studios SS25 presentation is a bold and sincere celebration of fashion as an extension of human identity, executed with an artistic audacity that resonated at Paris Fashion Week.
Who better than Willow Smith to represent the rebellious attitude of Acne Studios?
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