If a few years ago Thomas Shelby’s undercut on Peaky Blinders was the trend-setter, now the focus is on a vintage trend, rescued directly from the 80’s: the perm. This look is back with a vengeance thanks to a new generation of celebrities who dare to challenge the norms of the ‘traditional man’. Actors such as Aaron Taylor-Johnson, Paul Mescal, Jeremy Allen White, Austin Butler, Josh O’Connor and the unmistakable Timothée Chalamet have made it clear that there is no fear of the curl.
In its more modern versions, the perm has left behind the overdone, artificial aesthetic of the 70s and 80s. It is now a more precise, less aggressive and more natural process. The result: curls that give volume and texture without looking ‘manufactured’. The aim is to make hair look fresh and casual, a look that resonates with the ‘soft boy’ or ‘babygirl’ trend (which, in case you don’t know, is a popular TikTok meme).
What is perming and how is it achieved?
A perm is a chemical treatment that redefines the structure of the hair, allowing for everything from tight curls to soft waves. Depending on what you’re looking for, you can opt for a subtle wave that evokes the beach waves of a movie surfer, or a more pronounced curl, capable of giving any mane an unruly texture. The process involves the application of chemicals that alter the keratin bonds in the hair. These bonds are what define the shape and texture of the hair, and with the help of rollers (of different sizes depending on the type of curl desired), the hair is reshaped.
After the process, a neutralising solution fixes the new shape of the hair, and after rinsing, it’s on to the final blow-drying and styling. The key here is that it is not just about creating a ‘curly’ effect, but about adding volume, movement and body to the hair.
How to maintain your perm
But like any chemical treatment, perming requires specific care. The main concern, especially for those looking for a natural finish, is to prevent the hair from ending up with that ‘straw effect’ look. To prevent this, intensive moisturising treatments are essential, as the perming process tends to dry out the hair. Hair masks and moisturising balms should become your best friend. If you don’t want your hair to end up looking like a 2000’s teenager (yes, we’re talking about Justin Timberlake curls), you’ll need to maintain a hair routine that boosts your hair’s natural moisture and shine.
It’s best to see a professional who knows your hair type and how to treat it. A good barber will know what type of perm is right for you depending on the thickness of your hair and if you have had any other chemical treatments that may interfere with the process. In short: if you’ve always felt that straight hair no longer defines you, a perm could be the unexpected twist in your hair story.
In the end, fashion doesn’t just follow cycles, it creates new spaces to reinterpret the old and make it your own. And if the look of the last few seasons is anything but predictable, the return of the perm is just another sign that, in the world of fashion, anything is possible.
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