Martine Rose SS25: the body as a canvas for transformation

Martine Rose has always played by her rules. The British-Jamaican designer has reinvented aesthetics in a unique way, using her collections as visual narratives. In her Spring/Summer 2025 campaign, directed by Sharna Osborne, Martine once again explores the boundaries of identity, humour and desire, challenging fashion conventions with a powerful statement about expression and the body.

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The campaign images present us with figures who, through wigs and latex prosthetics, alter their silhouettes in dramatic, intentionally charged ways. With an aesthetic that flirts with the grotesque and the surreal, the collection becomes a commentary on traditional beauty ideals and the freedom to transform oneself. The designer plays with anonymity and varying degrees of self-awareness, showing how body-modifying elements – overly obvious, almost artificial – invite us to question our relationship with the vulnerable and the protective.

This season, the collection adopts a softer but equally challenging tone, fusing a DIY spirit with a raw, deconstructive feel. Women’s camisoles, shirts and skirts are sculpted around moulded bra cups and biker-inspired elbow and knee patches, while leather skirts with back zips evoke a darker, more sensual style. The collection also plays with the twist of leather, visible in shorts and chaps with arched front zips, providing provocative ease of access.

Tailoring takes over a triangular silhouette, with crossover suits complemented by refined pencil skirts for a fluid, contemporary elegance. Classic signature elements make a strong comeback: long coats, jackets turned into shirts and overlapping outerwear. Jacquard, a fabric that has been reinvented under Martine’s watchful eye, also makes an appearance. And as always, accessories are key: a multicoloured crochet bag, oversized belt buckles and jewellery that reinforce the collection’s playful and transgressive aesthetic.