This proposal fuses the nostalgia of traditional tailoring with a radically contemporary vision. With this collection, the brand, which has made a name for itself for its eclectic and disruptive approach, not only celebrated fashion as art, but also took a step towards luxury customisation, putting the focus on bespoke design that redefines the rules of the game.
This FW25 marks a milestone for the brand, which officially launches its bespoke personalisation service, where each customer can intervene in the details of their garments, choosing everything from the jade that adorns the suits to the exact tailoring adjustments. This level of personalisation not only confers exclusivity, but also makes each garment a tangible reflection of the wearer’s identity.
The ability to customise jade finishes – in various shades and materials – is the highlight of this service, which transcends the conventional and brings the customer into a unique and deeply intimate experience with the garment. The details, such as the natural stone buttons (white jade, grey agate, tiger’s eye, black obsidian or crystal quartz), underline the commitment to high quality.
“Romantic Sharpness” moves between two worlds: that of strength and that of fragility. The ‘Gentle Warriors’ are the leitmotif of the collection, a figure of inner battle that, rather than physical struggle, speaks of emotional resilience and the ability to reinvent oneself through pain. The garments, which include asymmetrical suits and a combination of rigid and soft fabrics, reflect this duality, where swords and armour are transformed into poetic elements.
Elements such as ‘Cold Weapons’ or ‘Tear Flavour of Romance’ refer to this tension, while irregular cuts in the garments – such as multidimensional shoulders and seam breaks – allude to the vision of a modern society that is incomplete, imperfect and in constant transformation. The collection is not only an aesthetic challenge, but also a conceptual one, inviting reflection on the fragile structure of our world.
The concept of ‘Romantic Sharpness’ is not only found in the garments, but also in the accessories and the environment. For this show, Pronounce collaborated with artist Lu Zheng, who designed a conceptual round-shaped bag made of wood, which acts as a centrepiece in the visual imagery of the collection. In addition, the brand teamed up with creative team 998E for futuristic sunglasses that perfectly complemented the avant-garde character of the show.
The soundtrack, created by artists Zheng Ke, 1334 and Jie Shi, added an emotional and experimental layer to the show, where sound became an extension of the visual concept, pushing the audience into a full sensory experience.
Pronounce’s tailoring remains his unmistakable signature, and in this collection, the combination of wool, cashmere and advanced weaving techniques takes Mao suits to a whole new level. The ‘Contemporary Mao Suits’ are transformed into couture pieces with detailed construction and a more futuristic attitude, but equally respectful of tradition.
A key detail of the collection is the layers of 3D braided rope, an element that has become a hallmark of the brand. Woven by hand, the ropes not only reinforce the connection between the garment and the body, but represent a sort of second skin, a link between the wearer and the piece. The intersection of craft and technology creates an aesthetic that is as emotional as it is visual.
‘Romantic Sharpness is not just an ode to tailoring or a technical exploration of materials; it is a visual and philosophical manifesto about the times we live in. Layers, asymmetrical fabrics and breaks in the garments allude to a fragmented, imperfect society where beauty and desolation coexist. The collection redefines what it means to be strong in fragile times.
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