Calvin Klein renaissance

After a six-year absence from the runway, Calvin Klein returned to New York Fashion Week this weekend. Its runway show for the Fall/Winter 2025 season, under the creative direction of Veronica Leoni, marks a turning point in the history of the brand, which since the departure of Raf Simons in 2018, had stopped presenting collections on the runway to focus on its commercial line.

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The brand has had a long-awaited comeback, yes, but also a much talked about one. Under Leoni’s leadership, the New York house bets on a demure and minimal approach. Leoni, with experience at The Row, Céline and Jil Sander, brings a fresh air to the brand without straying from its DNA: wrap coats, tailored suits in different silhouettes, silk blouses and five-pocket pants. Suddenly, the CK ONE bottle became an evening bag, to remind us that there can still be fun in a proposal at first glance sober. Thus, the new Calvin Klein is built on closet essentials, refining the finishes of the garments, with elegant silhouettes and structured pieces. The new proposal is reminiscent of the brand’s best years.

We can say that Calvin Klein’s revival makes a lot of sense in this stage we are living in of quiet luxury, a concept that has dominated the industry in recent years. Minimalist aesthetics, quality materials and design discretion have been the keys to the success of brands such as The Row, Bottega Veneta and Loro Piana, and Calvin Klein seems to be aligning itself with this trend.

Under the direction of Veronica Leoni, the company is betting on a refined and timeless elegance, elements that fit perfectly with the current demand for sophisticated fashion without ostentation, moving away from logomania and maximalism. The challenge will be to consolidate this new positioning and compete in a market where other houses have already capitalized on this aesthetic. However, with its legacy and the new approach from Leoni’s hand, Calvin Klein has the potential to reclaim its place within quiet luxury.

Therefore, the future of Calvin Klein under the new creative direction of Veronica Leoni is yet to be defined, but her return to New York Fashion Week makes it clear that the brand is ready to write a new chapter in its history, or perhaps underwrite what once made it great.