Since its origins in the 1970s, Fiorucci has been much more than a fashion brand: it’s been a cultural statement. Its visual imagery—bold, pop, unabashedly sexy, and deeply connected to art and music—turned its stores into true temples of modernity and counterculture. Today, more than five decades later, Elio Fiorucci’s legacy lives on again under the creative direction of Francesca Murri, who has taken on the challenge of rewriting the brand’s future without erasing its glorious past.
With a career that includes names like Armani, Givenchy, and Gucci, Murri not only knows the rules of luxury, but also knows how to break them with style. Her vision is clear: to rescue Fiorucci’s iconic DNA and project it into a new era where nostalgia, irreverence, and contemporaneity coexist in harmony. Under her leadership, the brand has regained relevance and attitude, connecting with new generations through a visual language that is as emotional as it is aesthetic.
In this intimate conversation, Murri opens the door to her creative universe, discussing contrasts, sustainability, urban culture, and how to make a classic avant-garde again. From her personal connection with fashion to her cinematic dreams, the creative director makes it clear that the new Fiorucci is not just a brand: it’s a sensorial experience, a cultural manifesto, and, above all, a space of freedom.
HIGHXTAR (H) – Francesca, your arrival at Fiorucci in 2023 marked a key moment in the brand’s history. How has your vision taken shape within a firm so deeply rooted in pop culture and 1970s and 1980s fashion?
Francesca Murri (F) – From the beginning, my goal was to explore the archive and study the brand in depth so I could translate it into a contemporary language. I aimed to respect its DNA and strong identity, and along the way, I discovered how modern its original approach to fashion truly was. That’s where I started.
(H) – With a career spanning iconic houses like Armani, Givenchy, and Gucci, your experience speaks for itself. How do you channel those lessons at Fiorucci?
(F) – Working in the luxury sector allowed me to grow and experiment in high-level environments, constantly interacting with quality products and attention to detail. I wanted to bring that experience to Fiorucci to give the brand credibility within the affordable luxury segment.
(H) – Your first collections at the helm of Fiorucci have not only revitalized the brand but also defined a new visual narrative. What has been the biggest creative challenge in bringing a contemporary approach to a brand with such a long history?
(F) – The real challenge is staying true to the brand’s codes, expressing them through a contemporary lens—making Fiorucci relevant again, even for generations who may not know its legacy. I didn’t want to follow a nostalgic route, simply because in its heyday, Fiorucci was one of the most innovative and forward-thinking brands of its time.
(H) – Fiorucci is synonymous with energy and vitality. What elements are essential to conveying that unique energy in each design?
(F) – I love playing with contrasts to create something fresh: sexy and romantic, striking and angelic, urban and surreal, for day and night—always appealing to the senses. All while maintaining a very real yet deeply creative approach. These are the recurring elements I’ve found in common between my vision and the brand’s original aesthetic.
(H) – The contrast between modernity and nostalgia seems to be a constant in your collections. How do you make these two worlds coexist?
(F) – Absolutely. The number one contrast is between past and present. I’m nostalgic by nature, but creatively, I always look to the future. The fusion of heritage and innovation has always been the space where I enjoy working most. Contrasts are undoubtedly a key part of my vision.
(H) – Your vision of fashion seems closely linked to youth and urban culture. How do you see fashion as a form of identity today, and how does Fiorucci reflect these social and cultural changes?
(F) – Fashion has always been a mirror of society, evolving and shaping alongside social and cultural changes. Today, there’s greater freedom of expression, and fashion is one of the tools we use to show the world who we are—we can choose to fit in or stand out. I’ve always tended toward the latter.
(H) – Sustainability is a central theme in today’s fashion industry. How is Fiorucci committed to responsible production, and how do you balance luxury and ethics in the collections you’ve developed so far?
(F) – Fiorucci has always paid attention to sustainability, both socially and in terms of the product. This focus has been further reinforced since the brand came under the direction of Dona Bertarelli—a philanthropist and entrepreneur committed to ocean conservation. With her vision, we have redoubled our commitment to a more responsible future. We work with certified suppliers, we carefully select our materials, and the vast majority of our collections are produced in Italy.
(H) – Fiorucci has had an unbreakable connection with music and art since its inception. How do these disciplines influence your creative approach?
(F) – They are fundamental. I am a pure creative, and both art and music are integral to my vision. They have always been part of Fiorucci’s journey. True to that DNA, I knew from the beginning I wanted to move in that direction. Our creative space in Milan, at Via Lomazzo 19, Circolo UltraFiorucci, was created to reinforce that connection—we wanted a place where art took center stage. Regarding music, we’ve begun telling stories through collaborations with innovative Milanese scenes that align with my vision of connecting the brand with authentic and real communities.
(H) – Where do you get your inspiration to create a collection?
(F) – Inspiration often comes from music, a trip, a dream, a story I want to explore, or a message I want to share to provoke reflection. There’s a lot of me in that process—a constant quest to look beyond and explore different perspectives.
(H) – In a world saturated with information and constant change, how do you manage Fiorucci’s digital presence, and how important is connecting with your audience through social media for brand positioning today?
(F) – Social media is the fastest way to communicate and build a daily, democratic relationship with consumers—without geographical boundaries. On the other hand, it can sometimes encourage passive and superficial interaction. Along with digital, I would love to revive the return to physical experiences—something that engages all five senses and creates lasting memories.
(H) – With the brand experiencing a new wave of energy under your leadership, what long-term goals do you have for Fiorucci?
(F) – I would love to restore the brand’s past cultural relevance, which marked the history of fashion. Our goal is to establish Fiorucci as a key player among contemporary Italian brands globally.
(H) – What kind of legacy do you hope to leave within the brand and in the fashion industry?
(F) – I hope Fiorucci is seen as a world where everyone can be whoever they want and feel welcome. Fiorucci as a way of life and being.
(H) – If you could dress anyone—past or present—in a Fiorucci garment, who would it be and why?
(F) – To men and women with strong personalities, a sense of humor, and irony. But if I had to choose just one person, it would be my mother. I lost her many years ago—she was an artist and a free spirit. She was always one of my greatest supporters, and I would have loved to see her dressed in Fiorucci.
(H) – What’s playing in your headphones when you’re creating?
(F) – From classical to electronic music. Often in contrast to my current mood.
(H) – If you could collaborate with any artist, musician or cultural icon, who would it be and what kind of project would you like to develop?
(F) – I’m fascinated by the surrealist period—today I’d be thrilled to collaborate with Maurizio Cattelan. In other creative fields, working with Paolo Sorrentino or Tim Burton would be incredibly inspiring. With Sorrentino, I imagine a short film that explores the meaning of life and the nostalgia of memory. With Burton, I would immerse myself in a fantastical, dreamlike world. Entering the world of cinema would be an extraordinary adventure for Fiorucci—it’s a true passion for me.
(H) – Finally, what is that Fiorucci piece that will always have a place in your wardrobe?
(F) – A colorful lycra catsuit to wear under a high-waisted skirt or a romantic lace dress… a Lips Bag, and a good pair of jeans.
Sigue toda la información de HIGHXTAR desde Facebook, Twitter o Instagram