Is it time for Chanel to launch its men’s line?

By now, it should be more than clear that men wear Chanel. And I’m not just talking about a borrowed jacket for a red carpet event, but a constant presence of the maison on some of the most influential men on the planet. Timothée became the face of Bleu de Chanel in May 2023, and Kendrick Lamar joined the maison as an ambassador just 3 weeks ago, starring in its new eyewear campaign.

Furthermore, Chanel has never been a brand that simply divides clothing by gender as such. Coco Chanel borrowed elements from men’s tailoring to redefine the female silhouette in her designs. Karl Lagerfeld, with his vision, played with the androgynous. But then, why does the maison still not have a men’s line? Is it not ready for it?

Chanel and its official and not-so-official ambassadors

Timothée Chalamet, A$AP Rocky, Kendrick Lamar have been wearing Chanel lately and with a style that transcends mere commercial collaboration. He has been photographed on numerous occasions wearing pieces from the maison, such as tweed jackets and pearl necklaces, and even from Chanel’s Bleu de Chanel perfume for the past 2 years.

A$AP Rocky, known for his impeccable style and ability to mix high fashion with streetwear, has made tweed and Chanel accessories part of his regular closet. He was one of the first rappers to wear the brand’s jewelry at high-profile events, cementing Chanel’s presence in a niche previously dominated by brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton.

Kendrick Lamar, now an official Chanel ambassador, has worked directly with the maison on multiple occasions. His recent appointment marks a milestone: he is the first rapper with this status in the history of the brand. He had already collaborated with Chanel on several occasions: the short film “The Button” with his music, the set design for its 2024 Haute Couture runway show, and his 2023 Met Gala outfit by Virgine Viard. But his new role as ambassador formalizes a long-standing relationship. This level of involvement is no accident. His association with Chanel demonstrates that the maison is seriously exploring its link with the male audience beyond perfumes and watches.

The path that other brands have taken

Saint Laurent, under the direction of Hedi Slimane and then Anthony Vaccarello, has embraced a sharp, androgynous aesthetic that does not distinguish between masculine and feminine. Prada, for its part, has been blurring gender boundaries for years, presenting collections for several seasons in which the same looks that parade in men, do so in the women’s season, without distinction. And other houses, such as Gucci with Alessandro Michele, have made genderless their flag, redefining how men can dress without fear of the “feminine”, as have new generation designers such as Ludovic de Saint Sernin or Palomo Spain.

If Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton under Virgil Abloh, Prada… have all been able to evolve towards proposals in which clothing is no longer defined by gender, but by design, Chanel could do it with an almost insulting ease, because it already has the heritage, the savoir-faire and an audience that cries out for it. Moreover, men are no longer satisfied with the basics; they are looking for iconic pieces, with history, with a value that transcends the logo.

Not to mention that the men’s luxury market is booming. Chanel is one of the few legendary houses that has not yet taken the step of a formal men’s collection, but the demand is there. And if the maison already has the most influential stars wearing it, the catwalks are asking for it, and the industry has already taken the step, the next logical move would be to tap into that connection. The market, a priori, is ready, is Chanel ready?