Marc Jacobs returned to the New York Public Library to present his AW25 collection, in a show that lasted barely five minutes but did not go unnoticed. While most continue to explore the codes of ‘quiet luxury’, Jacobs chose the opposite. Exaggerated proportions, theatrical styling and a staging full of artifice.
The collection was an evolution of his usual language, with a darker twist. If last season the references were closer to the Polly Pockets, this time the dolls looked like they had come out of an antique boot. Lilac lace, flat XXL bows, amplified cargo trousers and deliberately distorted silhouettes.
The first of the looks, a lace blouse over oversized trousers, set the tone from the start. Volume work was key. White denim with square shapes, heart-shaped puffed sleeves and appliquéd dresses. The body was also transformed with padded backs and corsetry made with overlapping bras.
The styling took it all a step further. Models navigated the marble floors of the library on platforms so high that they blurred the silhouette and defied balance. Extreme proportions in both clothes and shoes, leaving no room for subtlety. Jacobs embraced the exaggeration without hesitation.
In the hands of some of the front row attendees at the AW25 show, Marc Jacobs’ new bag, ‘The Cristina’, a crumpled U-shaped piece, discreetly appeared. A silent gesture that underlines that Marc Jacobs does not lose sight of the object of desire, even when he explores the more conceptual.
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