Haute Couture has once again become living art, and this time, Schiaparelli has taken its surrealist luxury narrative to the limit. In his FW25-26 proposal, Daniel Roseberry delves into the aesthetic archives of black and white photography, rescuing the melancholy of the past and transforming it into a visual statement of the future. To make it happen, he turned to the alchemist of the skin: Pat McGrath.
McGrath has rewritten the code of catwalk make-up. Lips that scream power, skin with an ethereal sheen and eyes that mesmerise. ‘It was time travel: backwards and forwards simultaneously,’ the artist revealed in a statement. The pivot: a cinematic aesthetic in greyscale, broken by flashes of red that invoke desire, danger and devotion.
The undisputed star: the dark, liquid black lip, like obsidian ink, created with the iconic PermaGel Eye Pencil in Xtreme Black. Accompanying the look were other cult labels from Pat McGrath Labs: Sublime Perfection Foundation, the illuminating duo Skin Fetish: Highlighter + Balm, the Mothership I: Subliminal palette and the finishing touch: FetishEyes Mascara, for lashes that looked like shadow sculptures.
Schiaparelli Haute Couture is a post-futuristic vision from the past.
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