Acne Studios presented its Spring-Summer 2026 collection at the Collège des Bernardins on the third night of Paris Fashion Week. A historic space transformed into a smoky, tension-filled salon provided the perfect setting for a collection that breaks gender codes and rewrites the narrative of femininity.
The pieces play with androgyny. Deconstructed suit jackets. Uniform shirts. Haute couture lace transformed into patchwork, almost like tattooed skin.
Contrast sets the rhythm. Lumberjack shirt paired with a light skirt. Faded poplin. Leather and suede with a worn appearance, as if worked to the limit. Fine knits layered. Sweaters with holes worn on the outside. Denim is treated as an experimental field; ripped, reconstructed, and latex-treated. The “1999” silhouette returns, but distorted.
Accessories are not left behind. Aviator glasses with reflective or clear lenses. Belts with large buckles. XXL earrings assembled with stones. Shoes with character, including square-toe loafers, pumps with elevated toes, and oversized cowboy boots extending to the thigh. In leather goods, new versions of the Camero and the debut of the Hotel, a weekender designed to take up space.
The visual imagery is by Pacifico Silano. Collages with homoerotic undertones integrate into the show space. Music, by Robyn, adds an emotional and physical pulse, featuring new tracks and a rework of Robotboy alongside Yung Lean.
In the year Acne Studios approaches its three-decade mark, SS26 raises questions about what female identity means today.
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