Pierpaolo Piccioli presented his first SS26 collection as Balenciaga’s new creative director at Paris Fashion Week, putting an end to months of speculation about the direction he would take at the helm of the historic maison founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga.
The collection combines archival references from the 1950s with subtle nods to Demna’s legacy. At the same time, Piccioli imprints his own signature, including fringe, feathers, floral appliqués and vibrant colours. The collection achieves a balance between the house’s heritage and his contemporary vision, consolidating the aesthetic already seen at Valentino.
The presentation opened with pieces that evoke both Cristóbal Balenciaga’s modern femininity and Demna’s urban edge. It pays tribute to the iconic 1957 Sack Dress, paired with oversized black sunglasses reminiscent of Demna’s “villainous” silhouettes. Minimalist dresses and relaxed-cut t-shirts coexist with oversized coats, textured skirts and flowing gowns.
Piccioli does not hold back on colour or ornamentation. Deep violets, lime green, primary red and lilac are combined with shiny fringe, feathers and ruffled floral details. The collection also includes black looks and more casual pieces, paired with washed denim, platform sandals and leather bags, including the iconic City Bag.
SS26 keeps Balenciaga’s history alive. It nods to Cristóbal and his successors, Demna and Nicolas Ghesquière, while incorporating Piccioli’s vision: decorative richness and saturated colours that point to a promising future for the house.
With this collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli begins a new era at Balenciaga. He honours its legacy while clearly asserting his contemporary and colourful imprint.
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