Beyoncé’s Cowboy Carter tour is not only a technical and scenic display, but an exercise in visual construction that reinterprets the American narrative with its looks. From its inception in Inglewood, the costumes function as a contemporary reading of Western imagery, American nationalism and global fashion codes.
Creative direction is shared between Shiona Turini, Ty Hunter and Karen Langley. They make each Beyoncé appearance part of a coherent whole that is not afraid to change register.
Roberto Cavalli opens the tour in a trompe l’oeil denim jumpsuit. While Peter Dundas elevates the football shirt to the realm of the sublime, with an oversized piece covered in Swarovski crystals. But the first truly unexpected gesture comes from MM6 Maison Margiela with a brown crocodile-textured leather jacket.
David Koma
He proposes a crossover dress with a deep slit and tricolour fringes. The American national identity becomes ornament and movement.
Calvin Klein
A poncho embroidered with over 28,000 beads on a black and gold base reminds us that luxury can also be armour. The CK logo, displayed on a crystal bralette, functions as a sign of belonging and a statement of power.
Alexander McQueen
The brand offers one of the most theatrical moments. A poppy red ensemble with corset, silk georgette and lace Heron boots. The silhouette is baroque, sculptural, yet disciplined.
Rabanne
Introduces two readings of the metallic mesh, one in gold with fringes and the other with the American flag. Both are political surfaces rather than dresses.
Ferrari
Through Rocco Iannone, the brand presents a hand-dyed leather coat and matching jeans. A literal, but no less effective, reading of the new industrial luxury that Beyoncé manipulates with ease.
Mugler
The French brand takes the logic of excess to its climax. This thanks to more than 35,000 crystals on the body, marabou stole and boots covered in fringes with another 53,000 applications.
Etro
Etro with a tulle bodysuit and embroidered chaps, proposes a more intimate folklore. The look is completed with a wool coat and an oversized fur hat.
Versace
The brand presents two looks. One black with a quilted skirt and crystallised boots, and the other completely white, with embroidery, leather and crystals.
Burberry
In its many appearances, it brings a more textile, more direct vision. Through plaid bodysuits, suede fringes, faux fur and eagle motifs, the brand reinterprets the flag, the uniform and animal iconography as elements of spectacle.
Levis
Beyoncé approaches the realm of homage with Levis. The brand name ‘LEVI’s’, printed with crystals, rewrites the history of denim from the author’s point of view. The chaps and patchwork cape function as archival elements of the cowboy imaginary.
Diesel
Diesel offers an oversize PVC coat with newspaper print, designed by Glenn Martens.
LOEWE
Cowboy Carter continues to explore the boundary between tradition and artifice, with printed shirts and skirts, oversized buckle belts and flamed Onda boots from the house of Loewe.
Finally, Cultnaked and Malone Souliers complete one of the most elaborate outfits. A beige faux fur coat and fringed suede boots.
With one more month of touring ahead of her, Beyoncé still has plenty more looks to reveal at Cowboy Carter.
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