On 16 October 2025, Balenciaga premiered a savoir-faire video offering a behind-the-scenes look at Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first collection for the maison. The film highlights his textile innovation, the neo gazar.
This material made its debut in the Spring/Summer 2026 collection. It is inspired by the iconic silk gazar created by Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1958. Originally, Swiss manufacturer Gustave Zumsteg developed the gazar to meet Balenciaga’s demand for a structured yet lightweight fabric. Silk gazar is characterised by its double warp and double weft, which allowed the couturier to construct his iconic architectural silhouettes.
Nearly seven decades later, Pierpaolo Piccioli collaborated with experts at the textile company Lorma, located on Lake Como, to create this contemporary version. The neo gazar retains the gauze effect on its outer face. Its organza layer incorporates a lamiset weft, a blend of silk and wool, which softens the typical stiffness of organza. The result is a fabric that maintains the structural fullness and ethereal weight of its predecessor, but with greater flexibility and fluidity.
An example of the fabric’s potential can be seen in the full-length bubble dress, Look 53 from the Spring/Summer 2026 runway. The piece demonstrates how neo gazar allows for defined volume while maintaining an almost surreal sense of movement.
This release celebrates the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga and his textile genius. It also reinforces the maison’s commitment to haute couture innovation, fusing tradition and modernity in a single material.
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