Blumarine FW25: A cinematic journey to Sicily by David Koma

The universe of Italian heroines continues to invade the senses long after the film reels are switched off. With their storm, grace and magnetism, the images that emanate from these films linger in the memory, awakening new fantasies. For Blumarine’s Autumn-Winter 2025 collection, David Koma embraces this cinematic imagery, constructing a visual narrative that pays homage to the sensuality and complexity of iconic Italian actresses and characters. In a fusion of romanticism and modernity, the creative director immerses himself in the mystical atmosphere of Sicily, transporting the women from screen to reality through a palette that evokes both the exoticism of the island and the transformative power of its women.

With Stromboli and its black sands as a metaphorical backdrop, Koma’s proposal takes Blumarine’s romanticism to a level of refined sophistication, embracing a balance between the ethereal and the structured. The colours, intense and suggestive, unfold in a symphony of deep reds and blacks, greys and whites, while the Sicilian thistle becomes a recurring symbol, represented in embroidery, prints and hardware that speak of fragility and strength, of the delicate and the sharp.

Botanical representations, skilfully executed in embroidery and prints, are enriched with delicate touches of blue and pink, creating a palette that defines an elegant and seductive silhouette, suspended between the romantic and the modern. With an unmistakable signature, Koma introduces metallic embellishments throughout the collection, from flowers to eyelets to studs, rings and sequins, elements that merge with three-dimensional textures of butterflies and flowers crafted through meticulous embroidery and cut-outs. Blumarine’s tailoring is transformed, with coats, jackets and fitted jackets revealing a corset-like structure, while voluminous or fitted trousers caress the ankle, creating a visual tension that redefines sensuality.

The bustier dresses, reinterpreted with crinolines and Chantilly lace, follow the same line of sculptural elegance, while the sheepskin coats and denim cut-outs add a sense of textural contrast that makes each garment unique. Shirts, essential in the Italian women’s wardrobe, become the epicentre of the collection’s flou, with silhouettes that oscillate between bohemian and dark romantic, created in georgette, chiffon and viscose jersey, with draping and pleats that merge into a play of asymmetrical and fluid volumes. The long dresses, adorned with three-dimensional tulle flowers and crystal and metal details, evoke a sense of hypertextuality, while the organza mini-dresses and shirts, with butterfly prints and encrusted crystals, follow the same line of sophistication.

In knitwear, the collection takes shape in merino jumpers, draped angora dresses and leather-strapped tops, all charged with a structured sensuality that intertwines with metallic and floral motifs. Metal roses materialise in belts, necklaces and chokers, while stretch patent leather boots with floral embroidered detailing rise up to the thigh, fusing fragility with strength in a unique aesthetic. Stiletto-heeled sandals and structured PVC pumps finish off a look that is both elegant and visceral.

Blumarine’s iconic Kiss Me bag is reinvented in a new messenger silhouette in zebra-print cowhide or in shades of red and black, complemented with sheepskin details. The collection also features evening bags embellished with hoops and metallic roses, or butterfly-shaped, forged from materials that echo the collection’s duality of rugged and sophisticated. Every accessory, from boots to bags, becomes an extension of the Blumarine woman: sophisticated, sensual and always on the move.

Blumarine’s Autumn-Winter 2025 collection, under the direction of David Koma, is a declaration of intent. It is the perfect reconciliation between cinematic nostalgia and the modernity of a woman who knows how to rewrite her own history, between romanticism and the toughness of a sensibility that never fails to dazzle.

Blumarine’s new collection is proof that David Koma was the creative director the brand needed.