The appointment with KidSuper is always one of the highlights of Fashion Week. Since his first show in Paris, Colm has had a habit of taking us into original worlds that could only come from a head as imaginative as his. First he staged an auction for his SS23, which was followed by a comedy show for FW23, and just last season(Spring-Summer 24), he deployed all his creative weapons to stage a play in which he himself was the protagonist.
Good or bad, KidSuper’s fashion shows leave no one indifferent. And although it is not always only for his proposals – remember that in his “Funny Business” the police had to put means to prevent all forest crowded at the entrance of the Casino de Paris to cause a stampede -, the creator and founder of the label based in Brooklyn is able to make their shows something memorable each season. This one was no less so. Although the doors of the show exuded a tranquility that we are not used to, inside the hall the cameras kept shooting at the array of stars that were there expectantly. Hip-hop stars, including Trippié Red, Gunna, West Side Gun, Pierre Bourne, basketball players and even the designer and muse of Rick Owens, Tyrone Dylan, who sat next to Sita Abellán, did not want to miss the appointment with Colm.
Under the name “String Theory”, the new KidSuper collection was just another opportunity to see Colm’s imaginative inner world materialize. In his universe, exploration and experimentation with different arts are a must. The theory, though unproven, states that the universe is made of tiny vibrating strings that appear as atoms, electrons and quarks. These strings are folded into multidimensional layers. At first glance they appear to be one dimensional, but on closer inspection they have more than 9 dimensions. That’s how the KidSuper universe works, in multiple dimensions. From ballet to hip-hop, basketball to soccer… nothing can resist Dillane.
It was professional ballet dancer Julian MacKay, to the rhythm of violins, who opened the catwalk in a black suit with ruffles, which gave way to old-school tailoring and flounce hats, as if it were a Yohji Yamamoto fashion show. But this tone was not to last long because when rapper Jim Jones walked the runway in a burgundy suit and a fur coat embroidered with Colm’s iconic patterns, the collection migrated to streetwear essentials. He also got Ronaldinho to walk the runway, wearing a fur coat. iconic? Yes, too iconic. The soccer star revealed his collaboration with the brand in the middle of the runway, with a T-shirt featuring an image of a young Ronaldinho on the front, and with the KidSuper club crest being an obvious homage to Ronaldinho’s childhood club, Gremio. The Brazilian is already a member of the “KidSuper Football Club”.
The runway was filled with tailored coats in the unmistakable patterns of its creative director in vivid hues: red, burnt orange, white, cream, purple, yellow…. from the collaboration with Canada Goose each garment tells a story, and each step on the runway is a journey deeper into KidSuper’s creative universe.
And in a collection that draws inspiration from string theory, the highlight was when a model, decked out in a white corduroy suit, marched down the runway. As her black knit sweater, tied backstage, gradually parted, a mesmerizing moment was created that symbolized KidSuper’s constant exploration. This act was not only fashion choreography, but a reminder that KidSuper fashion is not just about looking, but about experiencing.
Colm Dillane presented yet another season of KidSuper’s runway show to remember, tapping into cultural figures to explore fashion in relation to other creative disciplines through music and culture, aligning perfectly with the art-infused streetwear the brand is known for. Is there anything, perhaps, impossible for Colm?
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