From Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic suits with pronounced shoulders and cinched waists to Roseberry’s reinterpretations, tailoring has always been one of the maison’s fundamental pillars. This season, that brand pillar takes on a new look: sculpted jackets with pronounced shoulders, cinched waists with gold buckles, and boot-cut pants that redefine the Schiaparelli woman’s silhouette.
The dialogue between Parisian savoir-faire and the spirit of the West is the result of Roseberry’s own reality: a Texan designer based in Place Vendôme who understands fashion just as Elsa did in her day, but also in the present. In Lone Star, femininity takes on new proportions, and the usual excess of the house’s creations is modulated to the point of resembling sculpture.
While the house’s Haute Couture collections explore this theatricality and make us dream—gold corsets, impossible volumes, anatomical bustiers, dresses made of electronic chips…—the RTW line channels the same energy but towards a casual style; surrealist fantasy is translated into the pattern, the tension of the darts, the measured gesture of a cinched waist…
Today’s tailoring no longer represents a constrained woman, but one who is eager to take on the world. In this post-minimalist era, where brands such as Balenciaga, Mugler, and The Row reinterpret the suit in a more minimalist way, Schiaparelli offers a more emotional and sculptural vision, louder yet still sophisticated.
Each piece in the collection—now available at the Schiaparelli Salons at 21 Place Vendôme, and at Harrods, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, and the Mandarin Oriental Dubai Jumeirah—embodies this duality between excess and defect.
The result is a manifesto, not silent but almost, of tailoring that transforms the body into human architecture.
The spirit of Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2025 show is embodied in the new version of the Secret bag.
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