David Koma celebrates 15 years in the industry and celebrates it with a FW25 collection that is a strong footprint: an evolution of its DNA where maximalism and precision are the axes. There is no room for nostalgia, only a brutal reinvention of his usual codes, elevated to the maximum. The designer revisits his archive with an eye to the future, transforming iconic silhouettes into architectural pieces.
The 50’s revival comes with a twist: ultra-tight waists and disproportionate hips, strategic transparencies and embroidery that take couture to a new level. Its architectural neckline, which debuted at Central Saint Martins, returns with more volume and attitude. Sheer tulle extends into dramatic cutout dresses, reaffirming Koma’s fascination with the feminine form, without compromise.
Leather is still the protagonist, but in a version more adapted to modern times. From an oversize coat with endless bangs that generate a hypnotic movement to a long draped skirt that reinvents the concept of eveningwear. Sequins, the insignia of his play with light, mutate into column dresses with marked hips and micro-dresses that border on the sculptural. Stretch lycra and crinkled taffeta appear in bubble dresses that mix femininity with a sporty wink.
Koma also gives prominence to his obsession with polka dots through textures and radical contrasts. Silver discs float over an ethereal dress accompanied by a deconstructed bridal veil, while in its matte leather version they overlap to create a corseted armor. Sequins embroidered on bangs generate the effect of polka dots in movement, and feathers, another signature classic, evolve in chaotic clusters that defy the logic of structure.
The bows are not just a detail, they make a statement. In voluminous taffeta, cinched at the waist to sculpt silhouettes or draped on jackets with surgical precision. At their most irreverent, they sit low on the back, injecting sensuality with sass. The British royalty aesthetic, ever-present in Koma’s narrative, translates into jewels embroidered in a disruptive way: on angular necklines or falling in unexpected diagonals over bodies, bringing a futuristic warrior air.
The palette remains faithful to monochromatic minimalism, with black and white as pillars. But it is Klein blue that breaks with everything, injecting pure energy and an electric intensity that elevates the collection to the next level.
After 15 years, David Koma not only maintains his essence, he takes it to the limit. FW25 is a statement of power, form and attitude, designed for women who understand fashion as an act of daring.
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