Denim and leather: the spirit of Acne Studios FW24

An elevated femininity is juxtaposed with a tough attitude, where feminine clothing archetypes are twisted: fur (faux and sheepskin), feminine bags, a classic black dress and leather. Playing with proportions, the sheepskin is oversized and wild, almost mosaic-like, and the tailoring comes in sharp and simple. Elsewhere, ‘Lampshade’ dresses stretched with mesh and bones, test the boundaries, almost like the base of a couture dress: taking the inside and putting it outside. Similarly, ribbed Henley shirts, reminiscent of underwear, are exposed and elevated to outerwear.

The couture moulded leather pieces accentuate the feminine form and create a sculptural armature. The craftsmanship of the leather feels polished, inspired by how saddles are made. Denim is given a mechanical touch, with oil-coated, metallic and rust-inspired treatments rendered in floor-skimming silhouettes. Icelandic sheepskin offers comfort, but a wild style: a natural, almost raw feel, true to Acne Studios.

“I’ve always been drawn to leather and denim. It’s the spirit of Acne Studios. One of our first collections in the late 90s was called ‘leather and denim’; two things that go together. This season we’ve created a powerful woman in leather and denim. I’ve always related to clothing through subcultural movements. Denim and leather can transcend genres and subcultures, from punk to sadomasochism. When you want to feel tough, you gravitate towards leather and denim; it’s like armour. It always feels good. An empowering safety zone,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.

The Bowlina bowling bag takes centre stage, reinterpreted this season with a metal plate and in oversize, medium and micro Weekender formats. The Multipocket ‘tool bag’ returns with new denim-covered leather treatments, including a pearlescent oyster and brown lining. This season’s jewellery has a chrome and automotive finish feel. Mirrored glasses in black and rose gold create a mechanical chrome world, as if polished. Mesh boots and heels add height, creating a stunning silhouette to complete the look.