Dingyun Zhang reinvents the fashion game with PLAYFORM FW25

For Fall/Winter 2025, Dingyun Zhang continues to delve into the relics of his childhood, reinterpreting them with a bold and sophisticated vision. “PLAYFORM,” the title of the collection, fuses the concept of “play,” with its inherent creativity and freedom, and “form,” with its structural and defined nature, to redefine, in a playful and subtle way, the codes of traditional uniforms.

The collection is distinguished by its radical and exaggerated proportions, innovative silhouettes and the use of cutting-edge materials that evoke a constant dialogue between functionality and aesthetics. Zhang, inspired by his fondness for collecting vintage G.I. Joe figures, imbues each garment with a reference to that universe of action and playful lifestyle. This influence is evident even in the lookbook, where the models are replaced by rigid mannequins covered in camouflage face paints, a tribute to the figures that marked his youth.

Key pieces in the collection include wind jackets, ultralight coats and ski pants, all presented in a palette evoking military aesthetics, but refined with utilitarian details. Waterproof fabrics, reflective finishes and camouflage prints are integrated into the pieces to bring a functional dimension that doesn’t compromise on sophistication.

Zhang also explores the use of coated fabrics that mimic leather, sculptural hooded masks and innovative layering techniques, which transform the silhouette into a statement of modernity. These elements, taken together, evoke the exaggeration and energy of G.I. Joe action figures, but reimagine them in futuristic forms that are fully adapted to contemporary life.

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“PLAYFORM” not only celebrates the fusion between structure and play, but offers a sublime reconfiguration of functionality, taking the design of versatile, high-performance garments to new levels of individual expression. This collection thus becomes a vehicle of movement and freedom, an invitation to rethink what fashion means today: an amalgam of utility, creativity and refinement.

Dingyun Zhang goes beyond releasing small collaborative capsules and presents her first debut collection for FW24.