While Dior has paid tribute to the country on several occasions throughout its history, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior Cruise 2024 is a full-fledged celebration of Mexican culture, taking as a reference one of its most emblematic characters: Frida Kahlo. A tribute that has taken place in the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso in Mexico City, where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera met for the first time.
It was precisely Frida Kahlo’s closet that inspired the entire Dior team and gave them the keys to forge new links between the Maison’s savoir-faire and local ancestral traditions. The collaboration process has been varied, ranging from the creation of original pieces that blend embroidery and Toile de Jouy weaving techniques with the craftsmanship of the communities of Chiapas, Puebla and Oaxaca.
The Yoltcentle textile workshop, led by Hilan Cruz Cruz, has made a series of shirts and dresses that incorporate embroidery produced in their workshop and reflect the flora and fauna of their community’s environment. Pedro Meza, from Sna Jolobil has participated in the creation of the gaban -a long square tunic- as well as sash belts and cotton fabrics with thread embroidery by the Tzotzil communities of Zinacantán and San Juan Chamula. Remigio Estas supervised the creation of four traditional huipiles, which illustrate the unique weaving, dyeing and embroidery techniques of various Mexican indigenous groups. And finally, Rocinante collaborated with artisans from Oaxaca to create the embroidery technique known as “pepenado fruncido,” which appears on the iconic silhouettes of Dior jackets, shirts and skirts.
In the accessories section, the series of butterfly-shaped pieces are made using the goldsmith techniques of Plata Villa workshops in Mexico City. And the hats are by Alema Atelier. Weaving leaves from locally grown palm trees, the workshop gives life to a Jarocho hat, typical of the state of Veracruz.
Beyond the visual manifestation of these powerful cultural artifacts within the collection, and the appreciation of local craftsmanship, the Dior house has relied on local talent for its fashion show. The maison has included 45 models of Mexican origin out of its total of 112 for the show and has invited mariachis to close the show.
In the final moment of her Dior Cruise 2024, Maria Grazia Chiuri, a recognized feminist and vindictive one, counts on the artist Elina Chauvet to address one of the social problems that the country is experiencing: feminicide. Through 19 looks of white dresses, embroidered in red with words like ‘Feminism, Resistance, Security and Viva mi vida’ and with ‘Canción sin miedo’ by Vivir Quintana in the background, Dior demands justice for the missing women in Mexico. An emotional as well as controversial ending.
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