Dsquared2 turned up the heat on the first day of Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week got off to an explosive start. The Caten brothers turned up the heat to the max with their latest collection, unleashing a Dsquared2-style heat wave from the majestic Teatro Lirico. The catwalk turned into a sensual, but also sexual show, with a Magic Mike-like prelude and a lot of bondage.

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Dsquared2 constantly plays with the limits of provocation through jaw-dropping runway shows, and this week was no different. Minutes before the show, browsing through the paper program, we discovered that it was not only a fashion show, but a performance with all the details. In the front row, Bad Gyal, Aaron Piper, Tedua, Mia Khalifa, shared their anticipation for what the Canadian brand was about to offer. All settled in the velvet armchairs of the theater, we were about to enjoy another provocative delivery of the Caten: D2HEAT.

Five neon-lit boxes descended from the ceiling, revealing a cast of dancers in latex tank tops, swaying across the stage to the beat of Prince’s “Cream”. The scene evoked the energy of a Magic Mike sequel, with the five dancers delighting us to a mix of sensual freak-funk, glam rock, soul and R&B that soon gave way to the Dsquared2 entourage invading the seating area.

The twins delved into a game of contrasts, playing with the limits of the obscene and the sensual. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection stands out for the mix of materials and details that reference fashion subcultures. Sheer chiffons drape over the body, revealing bondage harnesses in black leather and barely visible bras. Denim is transformed into sculptural latex, while asymmetrical sheer knit sweaters are treated with lamination techniques, creating a contrast between brutalist geometry and the softness of the human body. Broad-shouldered suits and pleated pants are reminiscent of the 1980s, while leather biker jackets and studded sneakers suggest a nocturnal, rebellious alter ego that contrasts with the innocence of a chiffon look. Between chiffon, latex and laces that twist around the silhouette keeping the garments in place, suddenly the hot side of certain sports disciplines conquered mainly by the cis hetero man is revealed. Boxing and wrestling are portrayed through the usual provocation of the twins. Sequins, fringe, skin-tight leather and the glamour of lace details elevate wrestling attire to a new level of provocation.

As always, the Y2K spirit was present in a proposal that, as the twins warned us, left us hotter than the stairs to hell.

For more Milan Fashion Week shows, click here.