Set in the Le China bar in Paris, Enfants Riches Déprimés (@enfantsrichesdeprimes) paints a picture that is anything but optimistic for the FW23 season. The black color with hints of red in the space create a romantic, melancholic and rebellious atmosphere. The perfect place to go on a date with the brand.
Hip-hop sounds in the middle of the bar while two groups of men bet on Mahjong. The expectation in the room is palpable, Luka Sabbat records with his video camera all the moves while we wait for the show to begin. After almost an hour of betting on the Asian board game, the show begins.
Far from what it might seem from the reception at Le China, Los Angeles-based designer Henry Levy’s new collection has nothing to do with hip-hop culture. Rather, it is an ode to the brand’s recurring dark soviet aesthetic. The models look like they’ve just arrived at a rave, in a collection where leather accents, military-inspired looks and gothic references take precedence. One of the star looks of the collection was a ski outfit that was accompanied by two skis as a cross on the model’s back.
Hybrid quality and a sense of unpolished elegance underlined by the subtle clash of contrasting fabrics, celebrates the rough and the refined. Ideas are carried through with a carefully chosen fusion of softness and toughness always applying a rigorous emotional standard. The new silhouettes for men and women possess the essence of Enfants Riches Déprimés with intelligence, feeling fresh while still nodding to a necessary darkness inherent to the brand.
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