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Glenn Martens’ solemn act for Y/Project FW23

Glenn Martens makes a strong impression on the last day of fashion week with a solemn proposal to the rhythm of Händel’s aria “Lascia ch’io pianga”.

If we had to sum up Glenn Martens’ stylistic vision in one thing? His ability to recreate a denim universe with true mastery. This time he does it with solemnity, not only in the content of Y/Project new collection, but also in the way he presents it.

To the rhythm of Händel’s famous Aria ‘Lascia ch’io pianga’, the models walk the runway with a firm and majestic step, unveiling Glenn Martens’ creations for this Y/Project season. Is it a novelty that the primary element is denim? Certainly not. Where the interest of the proposal really lies is in the way it is worked. Cotton sweatshirts or dresses, and even several tweed coats have denim embroidery as an embellishment. Several feather coats get an unfinished effect by sewing strips of denim without finishing. The majesty of denim comes in the final minutes, when large kaftans made from the material appear on the scene.

Glenn Martens continues with his signature pieces, but takes his iconography further, adding more identity pieces to the Y/Project lookbook. His famous double flap pants become huge boots with an adaptable shape thanks to snap buttons. Carefully cropped screenshots of pornographic films are printed on silk or cotton dresses, skirts and tops. This playfulness continues with multi-collared shirts and even a white chiffon dress whose neckline can be twisted, revealing whatever is desired.

The same free and spectacular spirit is found in the “Paris Best” print, a reference to the Y/Project crest from 2013. The house symbol appears with an Eiffel Tower as a visual backdrop and is embroidered on denim bags just as it is on other pieces in the collection.

Although with true solemnity, the game never ceases in the universe of Martens, and we have witnessed it on the last day of fashion week. Pieces that, while bearing the designer’s signature, never have the same form or the same function.

See you next season, Glenn Martens!

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