Sabato de Sarno presented his first cruise collection for the Italian house at the Tate Modern yesterday.
The British capital once again became the epicentre of international fashion for the latest Gucci show at one of the city’s most historic locations. For over 135 years, the Tate Modern has been connecting people with different cultures in a diverse and unique setting for exchange, unexpected juxtapositions and unforeseen encounters.
Now, Sabato de Sarno takes over the venue to unveil his first Cruise Collection as Gucci‘s creative director, a new story told from his unique vision, his memories and recollections of London places, people and ideas that are intermingled with the House‘s more traditional codes. At the same time, it seeks that modernity that evokes the very architecture of the building with its concrete blocks, which have been intervened by a poem signed by Mustafa the Poet for the special occasion, where man and nature, the sentimental versus the minimalist, embrace duality to show the two faces of London, the two faces of life. A symbolic antithesis that is echoed by the collection itself.
“Fashion design is a medium to study, explore and interpret. After having expressed my ideas of desirability and sensuality, this is another piece of mine, more romantic, more contradictory. I like to take something we think we know and break its rules, take it as far as possible, without ever distorting it. To take it to its opposite and find harmony,” says de Sarno.
The pieces, inspired by the vibrant city and its culture, subvert dress codes to evoke a sense of provocation. Short coats in technical fabrics are set against delicate 3D floral designs in laser-cut organza, oversized leather jackets against flowing pleated dresses, poplin shirts against relaxed denim, and flat shoes such as ballerinas and loafers to match. Equestrian details pay homage to Gucci tradition while the symbols of British style – tartan or tailoring – and the House‘s emblems are reinterpreted to focus on a new generation.
Lastly, the leather goods are tailored to the body and inspired by Italy in the early 1970s, such as the Gucci Blondie bag.
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