For the presentation of his Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Simon Porte once again abandoned conventional runway codes and reaffirmed his own liturgy: a fashion that doesn’t parade, but rather narrates. This time, the setting was L’Orangerie at the Palace of Versailles, a place that, beyond its architectural significance, resonated as a symbolic extension of the designer’s emotional universe.
Far from any literal interpretation, this collection, called “Le Paysan” (The Peasant), stands as a poetic homage to the designer’s rural roots, a sort of spiritual reunion with the south of France, with the earth, with childhood, with his mother. As if fashion could plow the past and harvest beauty in the form of garments, Jacquemus here invokes the aesthetics of the intimate, the manual, the inherited.
From its visual conception to its material execution, the collection is presented as a love letter written with threads, with volumes, with textures. Rather than seeking monumentality, Jacquemus opts for pieces constructed with the delicacy of someone cherishing a memory. Poplins that rustle like antique sheets, English tulle transformed into a wrapping of memory, and sculptural silhouettes that dialogue between the domestic and the dreamlike.
Inverted aprons evoke agricultural labor from a hyper-feminine perspective, billowing dresses that mimic the movement of fields in the wind, sheer layers that suggest fragility rather than eroticism. The “J” monogram, embroidered with the precision of a vintage trousseau. The color palette also responds to this search for essentiality: pure whites, earthy beiges, soft blacks. Although some looks are presented in yellow to add a touch of luminosity.
As for accessories, Jacquemus redefines them as symbolic artifacts: platform espadrilles that elevate rural tradition to an object of contemporary desire, new forms of woven raffia that recontextualize craftsmanship, and the debut of Le Valerie, a handbag that not only bears his mother’s name but encapsulates in its form the entirety of the proposal: containment, memory, tenderness.
Because if this collection proves anything, it’s that fashion, when approached with authenticity, can be a vehicle for return. With “Le Paysan,” Jacquemus doesn’t just design: he arches time, cultivates memory, and harvests emotion. This is, without a doubt, his most personal, most honest, and most luminous in its nostalgia.
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