Are Luca Marchetti and Jordan Bowen abandoning the dark side of the force, or just becoming romantics? The London duo returns to Milan to present their Spring/Summer 2025 collection, exploring the juxtaposition between the beauty of a ballerina or a rose, and the stark world that surrounds them.
This vision is translated into the collection through the transformation of classic ballet and punk elements. The thorns of roses become the sharp points of Liberty Spikes, and a ballerina’s tutu is reinvented in the puffed sleeves of an evening gown. JordanLuca immortalizes ephemeral moments by coating them in plastic or metal foil, like the pocket rose on blazers, cast in 3D printed resin to make love eternal; she preserves them in a time capsule, hoping to have them forever.
A story of contradictions unfolds: the idea of the ballerina’s tutu is devastated in black. Feelings of luxury are fragmented. Silk blends are coated in plastic, as are distinctive denim, tailoring and outerwear pieces. The paradox of Japanese tweed is the man’s ticket to strut; short, boxy jackets with antique-effect metal shoulder pads and buttons and flashes of shine offer hope, while elsewhere functionality with zippers is pragmatic.
The collection challenges traditional menswear norms with a sophisticated twist, bringing together delicate ballerinas and punks in the same nuclear-white time capsule, dressing an ensemble of garments with a refinement that feels like a breath of fresh air in JordanLuca’s imagery. In it, the conversation about gender roles is an indispensable part. “What do hypermasculinity and hyperfemininity mean?” asks Marchetti backstage. For them, playing with gender is important.
JordanLuca, which started out as an entirely men’s brand, is introducing more and more women’s clothing each season. Now, it represents 50% of the brand. This growth has allowed JordanLuca to play with extreme binaries and amplify its message, exploring these concepts through its binary and extreme, yet deconstructed fashion. Kitten heeled boots are seen on men, the opulent silk of the women’s looks contrasts with the lycra of the thigh-hugging leggings of both men and women holding the Gotham bag, made from Italian leathers and finished with signature spiked hardware. This season it appears in a mini version and now available for purchase.
JordanLuca effortlessly merged two seemingly separate worlds into a raw and packaged narrative, without sentiment, but letting us relish for a moment, the ephemeral beauty and contradictions of a JordanLuca coded world that dances between punk romanticism and an eternal desire to remain intact.
For more about Spring/Summer 2025, click here.
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