Catherine Holstein has gone a little rebellious for the Resort 2026 season, and she has materialized it in a collection where Khaite’s own sophistication and minimalism meet 90’s grunge face to face. And no, it’s not the grunge you imagine, where the boots are dirty and the clothes are that way. Here the chaos is embroidered in Japanese silk.
The images speak for themselves: stark frontal lighting, poses somewhere between reluctance and mastery of the situation: 90s attitude filtered through the eye of a Lower East Side fashion editor. Think PJ Harvey on a cover of The Face. Think a Winona Ryder dressed in oversized leather and black glasses on her way to the Film Library. That’s the energy at KHAITE Resort 2026.
A child aesthetic of the 1990s, Holstein doesn’t fall into easy nostalgia. Instead of replicating, she reformulates: plongé coats with taut shoulders and cape-like flounce, low-rise denim with hand-washing that takes 16 hours, and knitwear that looks like it would have been designed for Courtney Love if she had signed with Hermès.
Everything this season moves in a kind of tension between totally opposite terms. Zebra stripes, faded leopard, worn leather and washed cashmere coexist in an aesthetic that looks like something out of a forgotten Corinne Day archive. The proportions are deformed and rebalanced: trench coats with dropped waists, cocoon jackets and pants that seem half lowered. The mismatch, the crazy hair and the languor on the models are totally calculated.
Resort 2026 by KHAITE could be dressed in a Mazzy Star video, in a Gregg Araki movie, or in the front row of a Wolfgang Tillmans exhibition. Holstein has come to tell us that grunge can smell like Japanese silk and a model who wears luxury clothes can also have dark circles under her eyes. Sophistication doesn’t always need to be ironed, does it?
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