Abandoning the minimalist purity that defined his previous collection and embracing the dissonant, the incomplete and the overlapping of ideas, textures and eras.
In a kind of homage to Hungarian filmmaker Béla Tarr, known for his desolate and poetic approach to human life, Kiko Kostadinov reflects his aesthetic vision in a series of pieces that seem to be trapped in a bleak universe, where clothing is much more a reflection of coexistence with the environment than a simple outer layer.
To understand the proposal it is necessary to understand the reinterpretation of functionality, reuse and transmutation of what is available. Inspired by military and handcrafted garments from Hungary and Bulgaria, the collection reveals an almost nostalgic, but also defiant, approach to what could be considered ‘surplus’.
Designs that transform over time, that are constructed and deconstructed again and again, with materials that seem to be recycled, reused and recycled again. Embroideries, blankets and traditional checks become a play of textures that redefines the concept of luxury and style.
At the same time, Ken Trubkovich‘s dark, distorted paintings contribute to the overall tonalities of the idea.
Another highlight is asymmetry, a language that extends across jackets, trousers, tops and, of course, coats. This arrangement not only responds to a taste for visual irregularity, but also echoes Tarr’s cinematic compositions.
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