Kim Jones proposes an attractive play of dualities for Dior Winter 24-25

On Friday 19 January at 2.30pm at the École Militaire in Paris, Kim Jones once again brought together a whole host of celebrities from the worlds of music, film, sport and art in general to showcase her Winter 24-25 collection, which is full of dualism and history. A unique event in which functionalism and poetry, utilitarianism and glamour, the reality of ready-to-wear and the theatricality of haute couture collided. A play of contrasts and a meeting of concepts that finally intertwined to give rise to the first men’s Couture designed by the artistic director that we have ever witnessed.

Based on the figure of Nureyev, considered by many to be one of the greatest dancers of the 20th century, the pieces explore the attractive duality of living two parallel lives marked by excellence, ease, rigour and discipline. To achieve this, Jones has placed special emphasis on volumes, openings and fabrics, while maintaining the house’s savoir-faire and tradition in tailoring. A clear example of this is the Bar de Monsieur Dior jacket, completely reinterpreted through an attractive fusion with the Oblique suit that redefines men’s clothing.

“I thought a lot about the relationship between Monsieur Dior and the ballet dancer Margot Fonteyn. The male interpretation of this encounter echoes her most famous dance partner: Rudolf Noureev. My personal story is closely linked to Noureev’s, through the career of my uncle, Colin Jones, a ballet dancer who befriended the star whom he also photographed. This collection, or rather, these collections are based on contrast: the double excellence of the house of Dior in ready-to-wear and haute couture. The difference between centre stage and backstage: Nureyev’s theatrical life and reality. Dialogue between the dancer’s style and the Dior archive,” explains the creative director.

On the other hand, there are clear references to the sixties and seventies in the buttoned suits, the subtly flared trousers and the interesting mix of fine materials. And while the couture silhouettes immortalise Nureyev‘s extravagance when he went on stage, the knitted designs and sumptuous furs refer to his formative process.

One of the dancer’s personal passions was antique fabrics, which he collected. For this very reason, the collection includes authentic works made by master craftsmen from Japan using virtuoso ancestral techniques, such as the silver Kimono in Hikihaku fabric inspired by the Uchikake (a part of the bridal costume). It is worth noting that it took three months of work and a team of ten people to make it. Special mention should be made of the Debussy dress, created in 1950 by Monsieur Dior and worn by Margot Fonteyn, which is presented in a men’s version for the occasion.

The duality of realities is also echoed in footwear, where Mary-Jane in silk, polyester, gemstones and the renowned Cannage motif are set against the more minimalist, less delicate-looking coloured versions. Bags come in different sizes and designs, bringing functionality through their sleek, flowing curves that pay homage to the house’s codes, while iconic pieces such as the velvet hats Stephen Jones introduced in 1999 are redesigned in the form of a turban in twisted silk jersey.

Among the celebrities who attended the fashion show were Yoon Ahn, Aron Piper, Pusha T, Kate and Lila Moss, Lewis Hamilton, ByCalitos, Younes Bendjima, Haering, Nicholas Hoult, Rita Ora, Manuel Turizo or La Fève, among many others. Scroll down the gallery below and discover the official images of the photocall: