Louise Trotter begins her era at Bottega Veneta with her first SS26 collection

Louise Trotter’s debut at Bottega Veneta was a demonstration that the brand can look to its archive without becoming trapped by it. The designer, known for her quiet perfectionism at Joseph, Lacoste and Carven, approached the maison as a workshop. “I like that Bottega is a workshop,” she said in the show notes.

In nine months, Trotter drew inspiration from Intrecciato, the house’s emblematic weave, and used it as a creative engine. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, was attended by Julianne Moore, Vicky Krieps, Uma Thurman, Owen Cooper, RM from BTS, Lauren James, King Princess and Zadie Smith.

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The collection combined lightweight, disciplined tailoring, nappa pieces that moved even in structured silhouettes, and evening dresses and skirts with natural drape. Menswear logic was applied to womenswear without losing femininity. The palette was mainly neutral, with touches of colour in outerwear.

Craftsmanship was central. A standout piece was a leather cape that took 4,000 hours to hand-weave. Similarly, the accessories reinforced the brand’s philosophy: the Lauren stretches, the Knot relaxes, the Cabat transforms into a clutch. New icons also appeared, including the Squash, the Framed Tote, the Crafty Basket and a leather Intrecciato newspaper, alongside refreshed tote bags.

The soundtrack also reflected Trotter’s philosophy. Steve McQueen combined Nina Simone’s and David Bowie’s versions of “Wild Is the Wind” into a duet that mirrors the Intrecciato technique.