Under the title ‘EL PATO’, Raúl López uses provocation as a truly powerful weapon.
The designer of Dominican descent explores and redefines a term that, for many, has a negative and homophobic connotation. While for many the word “duck” refers only to the animal, in some regions of Latin America, such as Puerto Rico, it is used with contempt to refer to homosexuals.
In this way, the presentation of LUAR‘s FW25 collection became a vindication of identity. In the words of Raúl López himself: ‘I’m not going to go back into the wardrobe for anyone’.
The opening of the parade was marked by the first chords of Willie Colón‘s ‘El Gran Varón’, a composition that narrates the gender transition of Simón, a man who, after his change, is rejected by his father and dies alone. But it was not all drama. The collection was meant to celebrate, to pay homage to figures who, like him, defied the limits of the established: Galliano, Gaultier or Lacroix, fashion icons who inspired him so much.
From the very first look, it was clear that the collection would move in a maximalist, eighties-inspired universe. Motorcore, straight-cut jackets and masculine garments dominated the catwalk, as well as feathers, a symbol of luxury and exoticism, which on this occasion had more room than ever to subvert their meaning in Raúl‘s discourse.
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