Magliano presented his new collection inside a warehouse covered in graffiti, some of which read “Milano Anti-Fascist”; from the right corner the models emerged into a large, smoke-filled space.
The silhouettes in this collection evoke memories of the 2000s. Colors are limited to black, white and in-between grays, creating a timeless and very Magliano(@magliano.insta) palette. The designer’s classics become modular thanks to folky or beachy additions, where Magliano’s coats are integrated with toweling fabrics and pants become swimwear or evening wear. Striking pops of bubblegum pink, balance all that chromatic rawness.
Garments take on unusual functions, bordering on fantasy. The microscopic is magnified, creating structures and decorative patterns through knots, intersections and closures of seemingly incompatible but persistently united elements.childhood, that puzzle of unlimited limits, is evoked through cross stitch. This medium, interpreted as a political tool, composes strings of Google searches, from poetry to pornography, and fragments of remarkable identities. The sweaters embroidered in collaboration with Cormio hold the same weight, exemplifying a staunch alliance between professional colleagues.
The hero of the season is Pinocchio, superlative symbol of transformation. Cheerful champion race car thieves, high-visibility reflectors and glitter, become elements of choral sabotage, giving rise to a new shoe, the Effe 10.
Magliano also ventures into jewelry, transforming wicker baskets into unique pieces, sealed with a bow, as a promise of endurance. Work clothes are reinterpreted, creating a new chic closet where the apron becomes formal and latex makes its way, representing the vertiginous climax of a struggle between the organic and the inorganic.
Among queer themes, chemsex is one of the most heartfelt for Magliano. In a suspended print showing a table full of instruments for that purpose, in the style of the painter Giorgio Morandi, Magliano approaches chemsex with careful attention and without indifference. The same character is also perceived in the prints of psychedelic snakes and rats.
In Western culture, clothing is subordinated to the body and the body to the conventions of society. Magliano challenges this norm, suggesting that if the body is insubordinate, clothes must be too. This collection thus becomes a manifesto of insurrection in a subliminal way.
For more Spring/Summer 2025 collections, click here.
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